I had that problem on a Yamaha once, it turned out there was a small hole in the water separator filter where it rusted through. Was allowing air in the system. You might have a pinhole leak in a fuel line somewhere as well, If you ever get in a pinch offshore and it does this, I would put in neutral, and give it throttle without engaging in gear, start it up, and quickly move the lever back and push in gear...all one motion very quickly. Worked for me once offshore when it died on me.

It definitely sounds fuel related. I don't think its bad fuel, or the other engine would not run correctly. Another way to test it is to pull the fuel line at the bulb, and put a fuel hose on there, and sit the fuel hose into a 5 gal gas can and try to run it that way. At least you will know where to start from there. If it fires up and runs right, then you have something further towards the tank. If it doesn't, then its somewhere from the bulb to the engine.

Good luck.

Daren

 

What's up Daren! Hanks for your input. I did try the very swift motion of going from choke to putting in gear as fast as I could but nada..... I guess I'm not fast enough! I had thought of doing what you said and also connecting it to the other fuel line from the starboard motor that she s running fine to see what it was gonna do. Keep the info coming!! Much appreciated!!

Gus

 

It's the IAC valve. Very common problem in the suzukis around that year model. Don't get the cheap ones off amazon for $30 go to autozone and get the $150 one. Don't go to the dealership and get the $350 one it's no better than autozone. It's a 10 minute fix and easy enough to do.

When you start it cold it will start fine at the beginning of the day but after the engine is hot you have to give it gas to start it. After it sits at your house for a while and you do stuff you think you have it fixed because it cools off and starts right up so you think you fixed it then it happens again the next time out...I speak from experience on this one.

 

It's the IAC valve. Very common problem in the suzukis around that year model. Don't get the cheap ones off amazon for $30 go to autozone and get the $150 one. Don't go to the dealership and get the $350 one it's no better than autozone. It's a 10 minute fix and easy enough to do.

When you start it cold it will start fine at the beginning of the day but after the engine is hot you have to give it gas to start it. After it sits at your house for a while and you do stuff you think you have it fixed because it cools off and starts right up so you think you fixed it then it happens again the next time out...I speak from experience on this one.

X2 Common

You can try cleaning it, but maybe not worth the risk as opposed to buying a new one

Also, if you want to test, advantages of twins is being able to swap sensors and things like this to see if the problem movies

Relentless

 

Thanks for your input Hog Smaker... I will definitely look into this aic valve? .. I have a question for you though... when it happened to you where you able to start the motor like normal after it cool down completely? That evening when I got home I tried starting the motor to rinse with fresh water and it would not start. Of course I really didn't try to start more than once though. I think it had plenty of time to cool off. Towed back from Bridge bait to Houston. I will try to start it tonight to see if indeed it starts. Also,..: did you have the same symptoms? If I would have known.. I would have noticed the engine signal code that suzukisbput out to point you towards the issue it is seeing. If I remember correctly it beeped twice then paused then continued again with the Beeping. Of course.. I didn't know about the engine codes then. I do know now. Regardless please keep the info coming ! Thank you all for your advise!

Gus

 

I hope it's your IAC valve it's such an easy fix and yes the symptoms were exactly the same. When I got home that night it did not start back up so I replaced fuel lines and the priming bulbs and the next day when I was done replacing parts it started right up. So I took it fishing and at the boat ramp it started without problems then I ran to my spot and it died. Came back in and next day it fired right off. Looked at the internet a lot and found out about that IAC valve and that was the problem. I bought 2 of the $30 ones off amazon and it worked and I had a spare. But it only worked for one trip then I found that the cheap ones in outboards (mine 225) don't hold up. So I went to autozone and got one and it has worked ever since and autozone has a lifetime warranty so I will just take it back when it breaks again.

 

I hope it's your IAC valve it's such an easy fix and yes the symptoms were exactly the same. When I got home that night it did not start back up so I replaced fuel lines and the priming bulbs and the next day when I was done replacing parts it started right up. So I took it fishing and at the boat ramp it started without problems then I ran to my spot and it died. Came back in and next day it fired right off. Looked at the internet a lot and found out about that IAC valve and that was the problem. I bought 2 of the $30 ones off amazon and it worked and I had a spare. But it only worked for one trip then I found that the cheap ones in outboards (mine 225) don't hold up. So I went to autozone and got one and it has worked ever since and autozone has a lifetime warranty so I will just take it back when it breaks again.

Ok great! I will definitely see if I can find the one I need and then install it. Hopefully I don't have to take the flywheel or half of the motor apart!...

Thanks again for you help sir!

Gus

 

Have you drained the high pressure fuel pump? It is a water separator also. Small screw on the bottom. Each time I change the spin on filter I drain the pump and clean out the small separator on the back of the motor.

 

Have you drained the high pressure fuel pump? It is a water separator also. Small screw on the bottom. Each time I change the spin on filter I drain the pump and clean out the small separator on the back of the motor.

Hello Oso Blanco,

I have not done so, but now I plan on doing so. Thanks for your response!

Gus

 

I don't see the option on my new pair of DF140's, and not sure if it's the same on DF150's, however, my older pair, time to time after running for a length of time, when I would pull the throttle back, it would either die, or I would get a single 'beep'..........'beep'..........'beep'..........etc

No where could I find this beep / error code anywhere.

When time for my next service interval, I purchase a manual online (amazing detailed mechanics manual, even shows you things like how to rewind the starter), looking through the manual I ran across something interesting

"Setting idle speed"

If your see the pictures below, when the engine idle speed is set outside the normal range, it puts the computer in the "idle set" mode, indicated with, you guessed it, a single "beep".

After resetting the idle, no more goofy beeps or engine stalls when throttling down quickly.

The images below are for two different year range manuals 03-08 and 2012 and newer.

The other issue I ran into, you can read more about it here

http://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/suzuki-outboard-parts-forum/3184-df140-overheating-2.html

Was a random false overheat, which I learned that just because a sensor is not showing an error code it doesn't mean it's not working, you can have a "functionally failed" sensor if that makes sense? Which if I sensor doesn't completely fail the computer will believe what the sensor is telling it and do all kinds of goofy things.

"The issue causing the over heat, or rather false over heat, was due to a faulty / erratic exhaust temperature sensor that is located on the rectifier.

I took the suspect sensor on the starboard side and compared it with the sensor on the port side.

Using a volt meter to measure the resistance, I filled two bowls with water, one with ice water at approx. 32° and the other warmed up to approx. 140°

The graphs are not exact, I did not worry to much about being too granular, rather than check to see if both sensors were responding the same.

I switched between cold and hot about 20 times with each sensor.

The port engine sensor, when going from cold to warm, showed a nice linear decrease in resistance every time.

The starboard engine, suspect sensor, when going from cold to warm, was all over the place, showing erratic jumps in resistance, and an overall ending resistance showing about 25%-35% hotter than the port sensor.

The suspect sensor would always show a spike around the mid way mark, jumping drastically from 1.68 Ohms to around 2.4 Ohms, and then drop to around 0.5 - 0.4 Ohms.

Apparently the ECM on the engine will only flag a diagnostic code if the sensor has completely failed, so because the sensor was responding the ECM was interpreting the drastic change as an over heat, triggering the alarm and reducing RPM to 3,000

About 75% of the time, once the suspect sensor would warm up past around 90° it would somewhat smooth out, but still show that the engine was warmer than it actually was.

This behaviour explains why this issue was less frequent in warmer water conditions, and happen more frequently in colder water conditions, usually after about 10 or 15 minutes or running at 4,000 rpm, and why the engine would usually run normal after turning the ignition off back on.

When running in cooler water conditions the temperature would swing across a wider range hitting the erratic spikes around the 90°, and by the time I stopped the boat and restarted the engine the internal temperature was above the erratic spikes and would continue on until it started acting up again.

Also, I noticed that Suzuki changed the sensor installation taking it out of the water stream, I am not sure if this was one of the reasons or not, but sounds plausible.

I am going to replace both exhaust temp sensors, keep the port, good sensor as a spare.

Since both cylinder head and exhaust temperature sensors are the same, I am considering taking the failed sensor, cut the sensor off the pigtail and solider a 1.5 to 4 ohm resistor on the pig tail, to make a "dummy load", which could be used in an emergency should a sensor fail on the water and positive it is not an actual overheat."

Relentless

 

Can you remove the battery cables to reset the computer map to see if it clears up the symptom on these new fangled non carburated motors?

 

I've heard varying info on this, some say yes, others say no that it's stored in nonvolatile memory along with engine hours, diagnostics, etc

However, if you watch the TAC and what lights flash and the number of flashes, it performs an initial diagnostic that will tell you all the common issues the same as plugging OBDII diagnostic software using a computer

Relentless

 

X3 Iac valve. Mine did it at the gardens on my 08 250s. I was fortunate enough to slam it in gear once started and kept her up in higher rpms. I carry a spare now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Idler Control Valve

I bet this is the issue as others have posted. Check engine light 3 times..i clean mine everyone other trip just to be safe. I use carb cleaner to get the gum out and they work fine. YOu can buy new ones - i have heard the ones at Autozone are good but have no experience with them...

 

I wanted to post on my status with my motor. Well I finally had time to look into my issue with my motor. To make a long story short.. My original suspect was the IAC like most have said. Since I have two outboards, I removed the IAC on the running outboard and swapped it with the one that was NOT running. Connected everything and went to try to start the motor and it started on the first try. Ran great! I found the part at Auto zone with life time warranty and actually bought two to have one as an extra. It was a very simple job, just a little tight to remove one screw under the flywheel. To all the people giving advise,.. thank you for your help. Now, if the winds can just cooperate a little. I cant wait to get back out there and try to catch some fish! If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. I can tell you exactly what the motor was doing and how it was behaving before I replaced the IAC. Please see attached. The one on the right ( the spring is further out ) was the bad one not working.

Gus

Gus