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16' Alweld flat bottom boat

6.5K views 24 replies 6 participants last post by  uncletodd  
#1 ·
Recently acquired the above captioned boat just after it had been sold for scrap. It is set up like a basic john boat with a 16' transom for a tiller motor. 4'6" floor, 16" sides,and 6' across the top. Still has factory sticker stating 35HP rating. Not a range, just 35HP. had a 75 Chrysler 35HP, set up for controls that were never mounted and no way to steer it, and a 25" shaft?



I have stripped out all the junk, flooring, water logged styrene, and 60 to 80lbs of sand!



I hope that these thumbnail photos will expand for you. If not I will repost full size. The plywood flooring is in fair shape but does create a water tight seal, hence the water logged styrene (1' sq x 2.5" thk in photo weighs about 1.5lbs), and all that sand! The 2 seats will have to be removed to eliminate the water logged styrene as well.The forward storage hatch is poorly made and not water tight. The only drain is a 1/2" hole that was for the bow light cable. It was full of sand as well. I am definitely going to make some mods to this set up as follows.

1-The transom drain does not allow for a complete drain as it sticks out 2-3 inches. Really not a big deal but I want to weld in a solid floor water tight bow to transom. So I am thinking about molding and welding a thick plate along the floor that would correct the drain problem and provide a footing for the aluminum floor. The The transom itself is not solid aluminum and is hollow. I want to raise it to 20" and extend it to the floor.This plan would include removing both seats. Add stiffeners in place. Seats would be reinstalled along both sides, right or left hand tiller operation, adds storage. I would add pontoons to compensate for added weight. Casting floor at bow would be extended about 2 feet and raised hatch removed and welded flat. Access from sidewall facing transom for batteries. Question is whether or not to replace the styrofoam? Wouldn't air pockets be just as buoyant as styrene? If replace then 2 1/2" blocks or pour in? Where can 2 1/2" styrene be found? This a 40hp tiller

OR

2-Everything above except eliminate instead of move the seats. Build a small center console, Cube ice chest rack/leaning post, overhead handrail with rod holders. Will need steering and controls, gauges, etc... This would require a subfloor tube for the steering cables and electrical. I know nothing about steering setups.Is it hydraulics or cables? Is the length adjustable? This a 50 or 60hp.

I am looking for a trailer. Preferably aluminum, galvanized ok but really cheap. How do I get this old paint off? sand blast? what media? or paint stripper?, (?)

Thanks Todd
 

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#4 ·
I've redone several myself back in the day. I would high pressure wash it good, sand any problematic areas, apply a good thick primer, then paint. All of mine where 14' riveted hulls so the loose ones were dealt with prior to paint. I would then cut 5/8" plywood to fit in the bottom floor areas, paint both sides, then screw it down to the top of the ribs. Then a 1/4 was cut to go around the ribs as they transition up the side of the hull. These were also painted both sides, screwed down, and caulked to seal the floor up. It made a huge difference the way the boat ran with the plywood floor and I always ran a Mercury 25 on them. With that 16' I'd be inclined to put a center console in it like you stated...I had a friend back then that had one and always liked that boat for the back bays...
 
#14 ·
Find someone that works for Upjohn Co in Deer Park. If they still make it , they used to let employees get reject pieces. I put a wood floor in mine, no seal around the edges, and yes there are probably a few misc tackle items hiding down there now!! I still have a tiller steer which I don't mind considering the money it was going to cost to do a console. I use a cooler with a cushion and have a couple of seats, trolling motor and flounder light on a rack that pins on the front. It is a very good boat and handles well. Sorry the pic is twisted. I am not a computer genius!!
 
#16 ·
Thanks. I will probably try and build my own center console. I can weld but have no tig rig! I am going to try Alumaloy Alumaloy Official Home. Supposed to create a very strong weld. However the material cost is outrageous. So will probably go back with wood and seal it. I just hate to have to deal with all of the extra weight that can build up in a hull. The amount of sand that was trapped in this boat was insane. There was tackle too. Will probably stick with tiller setup as well. What does your transom and drain plug look like. here is a photo of mine and the problem is obvious. The tube cannot allow a complete drain and the transom is not solid.You gave me a good Idea though. I was thinking of turning both seats sideways so that I can operate the tiller properly. (right handed and broke that elbow once-it aint' 100% no mo!) I might be able to cooler rack sideways instead. Will look at that when the floor is done. On photos in windows you can correct orientation by opening the photo in edit mode. Open the photo, hold curser on it and over the icons that appear. One will be edit click there. then you can rotate to the correct orientation and save it. You can also crop the image as I have done for you. Any trouble, no worries, ask any kid! A 10yr old kid taught me when I was 35! You can click these thumbnails to enlarge them in the post. When you post a pick add the thumbnails and then delete the large ones.
 
#20 ·
That motor is a monster! What HP? Now I gots lot more questions! Did you transfer your steering to the new tower? Is it possible to get longer steering cables? Are they Hydraulic? Do you still have the side console? Did you remove the rear aluminum seat? Still got the beaver tails? I may be interested in the materials if price is right. send pics of all and measurements of center console and tails if you still have them. Thanks Todd P.S. Boat looks good! Is that the vehicle you launch it with?
 
#21 ·
Haha 90hp 4 stroke. 370 freakin pounds but she screams and can hit 50 no problem. Yes i transferred steering and throttle control to the tower, had to order and install longer steering and throttle cables with the new lengths. Still got the side console if you're interesting in buying it (ill let it go for like $200) but note it doesn't have the gauges or anything like that anymore. Google image search jon boat side console kit for reference. I'll let the beavertails go for what i paid for em- $300. They're size medium you can find the dimensions and details on their website. Lastly no haha i launch with a ford raptor, that's my moms Explorer the day we brought the boat home from grandpas place
 
#25 ·
I looked up the slick stix but they are the uprights with built in taillights. I do like them. I did find what you described and have installed them on the trailer. They are definitely worth the money. i can push the boat off in the driveway. No need for a lake? I have uprights and will add sideboards shortly. OK I have been looking for a 35-50 tiller motor. Not too old. At least mid 90's. Found a few but a little unreasonable on the price, especially since no titles. I have discovered that my titling for the boat and the trailer are going to be a hassle. The trailer however I can just swap tags off another trailer and happily informed the DMV since they want to be unnecessarily unreasonable. FYI - I started with no serial numbers on either and have found serials on both. Verified not stolen but what a problem this creates. The TPWD is the worst. Anyway I am wondering if anyone has purchased a motor off of https://outboardboatmotorsale.com/ ? I am considering this one https://outboardboatmotorsale.com/product/2018-suzuki-40-hp-df40a-outboard-motor/ as it is the best price brand new 2018 model. I hear that Suzuki makes a great motor. I am partial to Mercury/Yamaha but this is about 2 grand less for the same motor. (2018 models).