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Let's make leaders.

73K views 147 replies 56 participants last post by  rock87 
#1 ·
I get a lot of questions about how to rig leaders for surf fishing. I'm not saying this is the "Only way" or the 'Best way", but it's my way, and it's been proven to work time and time again. This is a basic steel leader for casting that I use during the summer or when sharks are around. It works great for sharks, reds,drum, jacks, stingrays, or anything else that can be caught in the surf. For these smaller casting leaders I like to stick with smaller leader material in the 100# to 250# range. I understand that there are Great Whites in the Gulf, but your chances of catching one casting off the beach in Texas are pretty slim, so you don't need 1500# cable, so stick with the smaller size leader. In this case I'm using 135# because I had it in my box, but you can vary up or down in size depending on availability. To start off with cut 2 pieces of leader material around 24" long and one around 18". Here again this isn't rocket science, if you cut 2 30" and one 26" it will still work, the important part being that 1 is shorter than the other 2. Attach one end of a 24" piece of leader to a swivel, in this case I'm using a 4/0 size, always double or triple crimp all connections, big fish have a way of finding any weakness in your rig. I also cover all my crimps with heat shrink tubing. It's not necessary, but it looks cool and keep the crimps from ripping my hands open while leadering fish. Now attach the other end of piece of leader with the swivel to one end of a 3-way swivel, this is also a 4/0 size. Once that's completed, take your other 24" piece of leader material and attach one end to a snap swivel for your sinker and the other end to the 3-way swivel. Now you take the 18" piece of leader material and attach one end to the drop on the 3-way swivel and the other end to your hook, in this case a 9/0 Lazer Trokar circle. When it come to hooks, as with the leader material, your not trying to land "JAWS", so there is no need for giant hooks. I try to match my hooks to the size bait I'm using, so I keep a assortment of circle hooks in the 5/0 to 10/0 range. Now you have a simple, affordable, and durable leader that will hold up to anything your going to catch on a casted line.
 

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#120 ·
Best is a relative term, something is only the best if it works all the time, every time in every condition, and nothing can do that.
When there are mullet in the surf, they work about as good as anything. Almost everything in the surf will eat mullet, and all it takes is a couple casts with a cast net to have enough bait to fish all day. Smaller fish like whiting, croaker, and sandtrout all make good bait, but you usually have to catch them on rod and reel, and that takes time. In the winter, crab and jumbo shrimp will out fish everything else for reds and drum, but they usually have to be bought, and that gets expensive.
 
#121 ·
Yeah. I guess I forgot to order those so I used what I had on hand. I was anxious to make one. Also didn't have any heat shrink. Will electrical tape Work ?

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The heat shrink isn't really necessary. I do it because it gives the leader a clean finished look, and it cuts down on some of the exposed metal. I usually make leaders up at the house, and it doesn't take much time to add heat shrink, but if I'm making them on the beach I never put heat shrink. Electric tape will probably come off after a few minuets in the water, but they do make a liquid tape you paint on, but I don't use it.
 
#122 ·
Shark, is there any reason why you don't use the hook along the main swivel in the 3-way swivel (with red heat shrink on your initial post)? I would think that the load of a fish pulling would be taken better that way than on the perpendicular end on the 3-way (black heat shrink on the original post).
Just wondering...


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#123 ·
Shark, is there any reason why you don't use the hook along the main swivel in the 3-way swivel (with red heat shrink on your initial post)? I would think that the load of a fish pulling would be taken better that way than on the perpendicular end on the 3-way (black heat shrink on the original post).
Just wondering...


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I rig the hook section perpendicular to the rest of the leader to prevent tangles while the line is out. Once the fish is on, the leader has enough play in it to keep everything in line. I'm also using 30# line most of the time and you can't generate enough force to cause failure in the 250#+ 3-way swivel. If you use the standard 3-way swivels it's irrelevant, because the load is distributed equally around the circumference, so it doesn't matter which section of leader goes where.
 

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#125 ·
Sharkchum,

I have one question regards to color of the wire leader. Is the color important in not scaring the fish? I think so, but which is the best color to use that would not scare most of the fish? I saw you use color Bright. But it is hard to find this color in store that I have visited. Like they don't sell it at Academy and FTU, or online like Amazon or Catchalltackle. I think you brought it Marburger store. I am wondering if this is the only place that sells it.
 
#126 ·
No, color makes no difference at all. The only important part is that the cable is coated. Most cable has black coating, but I have used black, clear, brown, and red and it makes no difference at all. I'm not picky about brands or colors, I get whatever I can find.

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#128 ·
Hmmm... Must be coated you say? Nylon/plastic coated, or can it be for example phosphate or zinc coated?

How about this one? This is the one i bought but doesnt seem to be coated...

American Fishing Wire 49-Strand Cable Bare 7x7 Stainless Steel Leader Wire, Camo Brown Color, 175 Pound Test, 30-Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009V0TPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_h8TpBbXHFAZ7G

Anywho, what is the scientific for it having to be coated? That is, if there is one, or is it perhaps a conclusion of trial and error?

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#129 ·
Nylon or plastic coated. Any time you put metal in salt water it puts off a electrical current. When the metal is coated with something, it helps to block these currents. Sharks have thousands of tiny receptors on their nose that can pick up these currents, they are called Ampullae of Lorenzini, Google it. When they pick up the electrical currents they get spooked. That's why I only use coated cable and my bigger hooks are coated with dip-it or wrapped in electrical tape.

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#130 ·
Thanks for the explanation. Thats what i thought...

I wish you had explained this before i bought the bare wire.

I guess this could have been the reason why i didnt get a single bite after i switched from mono leader to bare wire leader. Thats how you learn (and dont forget)!

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#131 ·
Thanks for the explanation. Thats what i thought...

I wish you had explained this before i bought the bare wire.

I guess this could have been the reason why i didnt get a single bite the next day when i switched to wire leader. Thats how you learn (and dont forget)!

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Also keep in mind that almost all fish have a lateral line running down their body. This lateral line can pick up electrical currents also, it's just not as sensitive as the sharks censors. This is why I prefer using mono leaders over steel, but if your after shark's, you really need steel leader, at least for the section the hook is on.

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#143 ·
they're fine in no current, and no weed. But you get any kind of water movement, and 2-3 will not hold. If they catch a tiny bit of sargassum or hyacinth or anything, they will wash in. also, casting a half a crab or a mullet head for distance (when needed), u need more weight to counter act their relative light weight and large surface area that catches a lot of wind resistance.
 
#146 ·
I thought maybe it was that you need more weight to set a circle hook. I am losing some fish. They will hit the bait and I will feel them but when I pull the weight out I lose them.
Nothing is necessary to set a circle hook, they will set their self when the fish swims off. If your having to pull the weight out your self, they must be very small fish. Even a small slot red can pull a 8oz spider weight out of the sand when they hit.
 
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