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Old 11-18-2019, 08:17 AM   #21
bones72
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May have to look into that. I like the B10S but if the gap is only slightly smaller I think the $3.00 difference might justify the mustad. I think they would be a killer hook for some mullet patterns I have been daydreaming about.
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Old 11-18-2019, 08:37 AM   #22
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Here are the two size 1 hooks side by side. I happen to have both.
Top is the Mustad, bottom the Gamakatsu.
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Old 11-22-2019, 07:10 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by bones72 View Post
May have to look into that. I like the B10S but if the gap is only slightly smaller I think the $3.00 difference might justify the mustad. I think they would be a killer hook for some mullet patterns I have been daydreaming about.
Gamakatsu hooks are very good, but I also like the Mustad signature hooks.

A mullet pattern would be great. I’m thinking any finger sized mullet shaped pattern that kind of suspends or slowly sinks ought to be great. Casey Smartt did a Dead Head Minnow that has the right shape. I tied some not so great ones up way back when, but never fished them much. I’d probably do a better job tying them now, understanding tying techniques a little better.

https://caseysmartt.com/2010/08/01/t...adhead-minnow/
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:37 AM   #24
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I've seen that Deadhead minnow before. Could probably do them but there are a fair anount of steps and I hate dealing with glue around really "light" fibers. My palin is place a tail of either polar fiber or craft fur then wrap the shank in some 2 or 3 mm foam and then use minnow head brush to cover that. I believe that should give me a "suspending" bug.
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Old 11-22-2019, 10:25 AM   #25
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I put in the thinnest craft store foam I could find in a few Steve Farrar Blend Baitfish to add buoyancy. Here’s a photo of the foam tied in to one. The foam sheet is easy to trim into whatever size and shape it is you desire. The Steve Farrar Blend Baitfish are pretty buoyant without the foam so I never much fished the foam version.

I spread out the fibers to try to show the foam along the hook shank. I ended up all but removing it just because it floated too high for my tastes.

There’s a foam strip that forms the crown of the head with a thin overlay of Pink Steve Farrar Blend.

Might be hard to see, but it’s a shade darker in the photo.
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Old 11-23-2019, 08:44 AM   #26
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I'm liking that Farrar blend it seems to have a nice translucence to it. Are you using a mono thread on those or just white? I've tied some larger baitfish patterns for pike using mylar tubing. The mylar works out great as it is trimmed, and coated with a thin layer of UV glue and that really helps prevent hook fouling. On the inside of the tube I could leave it rather hollow or add some foam or weight dependent on how I wanted it to fish. I liked the tungsten scud bodies for adding weight rather than wrapping lead wire. They have a few different sizes and I could move it around on the shank for different "swimming" effects and it "keels" the fly. I did just about all of them in rainbow trout as the pike in Colorado are better at following the stocking truck than any human. I did have some done to represent yellow perch and threadfin shad but the walleye in Union Reservoir up in Longmont (actually one of the only natural lakes on the front range) tore em to shreds.
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Old 11-23-2019, 03:33 PM   #27
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Those are nice. You might probably give them a try when you get to the saltwater. Or maybe on the Guadalupe River where the Striped Bass hang out to eat the Rainbow trout there. I don’t think Northern Pike or Walleye do very well in our summers here.

I’m using white thread on that Steve Farrar baitfish. I Hardly ever use mono thread, I don’t much like tying with it.
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Old 11-24-2019, 08:36 AM   #28
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Yep I think the panhandle has the closest walleye waters about nine hours away. I've heard about pickerel in east Texas but also heard they don't get very big.


I'm not a huge fan of the mono thread either but have gotten better at using it. It is pain because it demands that you really pay attention to how it is wrapped and the pressure applied. I prefer uni-thread; I can wrap that and not have to be so precise and in the 3/0 size I can really crank down on it. I do not miss 8/0 and smaller sizes of thread. When I was tying tiny #24 and smaller parachute midges I used 14/0 and that stuff broke if you breathed too hard.
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Old 11-24-2019, 11:28 AM   #29
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I’m not very picky on thread. I almost always have something that’s 210 denier even if the recipe calls for 140 or thereabouts. I like flat waxed nylon, GSP, uni-thread, whatever. But, the nylon mono doesn’t grip fibers very well and that’s one thing I don’t like, plus the memory it exhibits.
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