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Old 06-28-2019, 01:01 PM   #11
redexpress
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Go weigh the truck at a CAT scale, usually a truck stop. Go Hitch up the 5th and re- weigh the truck, front axle on the first scale pad, rear axle on the next pad, trailer axles on the third pad. Do the math....how much did your rear axle weight increase and how much did the front axle decrease. Then look at the yellow tag in your drivers side door frame. You will see how much payload the truck has and what the rear axle weight rating is (RAWR). Check your tires for what they are rated for. You are likely over a couple of these limits.
And lastly, go back to the RV dealer and beat the @@[email protected] outa that lying salesman.
You need at least a 3/4 ton and if your buying that you may as well get a one ton single rear wheel. Before you buy anything look at that yellow sticker for those numbers. Many 3/4 tons don't have much payload either.
The airbags are causing the porpoising. They have unloaded the truck springs and the load is riding on the bags. They are too soft for this and are not designed to carry the full load.
If you are close on the yellow tag limits, I doubt it, maybe look at Torklift Stableloads.

Last edited by redexpress; 06-28-2019 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 06-28-2019, 03:06 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by redexpress View Post
Go weigh the truck at a CAT scale, usually a truck stop. Go Hitch up the 5th and re- weigh the truck, front axle on the first scale pad, rear axle on the next pad, trailer axles on the third pad. Do the math....how much did your rear axle weight increase and how much did the front axle decrease. Then look at the yellow tag in your drivers side door frame. You will see how much payload the truck has and what the rear axle weight rating is (RAWR). Check your tires for what they are rated for. You are likely over a couple of these limits.

And lastly, go back to the RV dealer and beat the @@[email protected] outa that lying salesman.

You need at least a 3/4 ton and if your buying that you may as well get a one ton single rear wheel. Before you buy anything look at that yellow sticker for those numbers. Many 3/4 tons don't have much payload either.

The airbags are causing the porpoising. They have unloaded the truck springs and the load is riding on the bags. They are too soft for this and are not designed to carry the full load.

If you are close on the yellow tag limits, I doubt it, maybe look at Torklift Stableloads.


Thanks, this seems to be an excellent explanation of why this is happening. I just checked, the RAWR is 3800lbs, and the tire ratting is 2500lbs each. Per the trailer manufacturer the tongue weight is supposed to be 1400 lbs. I can get the weight checked but it sounds like the air bags are the porpoising problem. In your opinion, without weighting as you suggested, do you believe I am close on the limits and if so, would backing off on the air bag pressure help with the problem? Also, with the weight behind the axle, does that contribute to the issue? Thanks for picking your brain.


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Old 06-29-2019, 09:25 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by wbs4010 View Post
Actually yes, because of the short wheel base. The Anderson hitch is over the rear axle but has a offset of about 7” toward the rear so the trailer front does not hit the truck cab during a tight turn.


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You're not getting any of the trailer weight on the front axle, might as well have a ball on the bumper.
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Old 06-29-2019, 09:59 PM   #14
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You can't believe what the manufacturer says the pin weight is anymore than you can believe a RV salesman. I'm about 1000 over what is advertised.
The only way to know what you have is to weigh it.
A half ton supposedly can be ordered that will handle a light 5th wheel. You are not likely to find one sitting on a lot though. There is very little demand. Most folks go 3/4 ton minimum and like I mentioned before that ain't a slam dunk.
It's all in the numbers and we are all just BS'ing without knowing what the weights are.
If you haven't used a CAT scale before just lay back a little and watch what the truck drivers do. You can enter from only one end. Should be an ENTER ONLY sign. Before you drive on it walk up to it and look at it. They are designed for 18 wheelers and have a button to press to call the cashier in the store. The button usually is designed to be high for a truck driver in his cab. So take a stick or broom handle or something so you can reach the button from your truck cab. Usually only costs $11. Off hours like Sunday morning would be a good time. You pay after you weigh. The cashier will take your money and print the weights. Cashier will ask your truck number or unit number. Just make one up, #1 or 69 or whatever.
Just generally speaking a 3/4 ton will be 2800-3300 payload, a 1 ton SRW 3200-4100 and a 1 ton dually 5500. Ram is usually the highest.

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Old 06-30-2019, 07:14 AM   #15
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Is that weight you listed in your first post the unloaded weight (UVW), or the gross weight (GVW)? There should be a decal on the trailer about eye level on the drivers side. It will list the weights, including cargo capacity, tire specs, date of manufacture, etc.
A 5th wheel will have 20-25% of the loaded weight on the pin, versus a bumper pull that is 10-15%. Assume a gross weight of 8000# and you could have a pin weight of 2000#.
The manufacturers calculate weights with no options. Some of these options are in the mandatory "packages" that add unlisted weight. They are devious about how they do that and the dealers are downright fraudulent regarding weights. Unfortunately there is no way to tell what a trailer really weighs when you buy it, unless the dealer weighs it, and they sure aren't going to do that and risk losing a sale. "There oughta be a law".
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Old 07-02-2019, 11:37 AM   #16
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towing

A 5er hitch for a short bed should be adjustable or on a slide rail. It should be in the forward position over the axle when towing. It should never be used in the moved back setting unless when trying to park.
You need a 250 or 350 to pull anything that big or heavy safely.
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Old 07-02-2019, 05:51 PM   #17
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Thanks guys for all your help and advise. Consensus seems to be I have too small a pickup for my trailer. Don’t know what I’m going to do though, really can’t afford a new truck and just bought the trailer this spring. Thanks again to the 2Cooler brain trust.


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Old 07-02-2019, 11:18 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by wbs4010 View Post
Thanks guys for all your help and advise. Consensus seems to be I have too small a pickup for my trailer. Don’t know what I’m going to do though, really can’t afford a new truck and just bought the trailer this spring. Thanks again to the 2Cooler brain trust.


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Don't need anything brand new... A well taken care of 7.3 F250, '06-newer Silverado Duramax, and any of the Ram diesels.

And to be real about it, it's not even the fact of having a diesel.. Just a 3/4 chassis or more is what you'd need to haul that thing, gas or diesel.
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