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Old 02-23-2019, 02:11 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by pocjetty View Post
He says he diagnosed it to be the module, but people say a lot of things. I obviously don't want to spend that much and not fix the problem. It's a special order part.

There are places that rebuild them, but apparently there is something oddball about the 2007 model.
What procedure did he utilize to diagnose the module?
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Old 02-23-2019, 09:50 PM   #12
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What procedure did he utilize to diagnose the module?

I don't know yet. I'm going back to see him on Monday. I like to do my homework first.

When it started, I was at the boat ramp and both lights came on. But over the next couple of days they went out a couple of times - then came back on after driving a while. I don't usually think of an electronic problem behaving that way. I can see it being something electrical - a bad connection, a wire, etc. But it seemed unlikely that was a circuit board. Not impossible, but unlikely.

If it was a wheel speed sensor, I would think that the first sign would have been while I was moving. But that's just a guess. It seems like they generate electricity from the rotation of the wheel, so I would think that wouldn't generate an error with the truck sitting still.

Assuming the guy is right, I was a little skeptical that the pump and control module would be a single unit. That obviously adds a lot to the cost. But I'm seeing that something is oddball about this particular model of truck, so maybe it's true.

I'm reading about a lot of other things that can cause those lights to go on, and I get the feeling that a lot of mechanics don't diagnose, they just start changing parts. That's a game I don't want to play.
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:12 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by pocjetty View Post
I don't know yet. I'm going back to see him on Monday. I like to do my homework first.

When it started, I was at the boat ramp and both lights came on. But over the next couple of days they went out a couple of times - then came back on after driving a while. I don't usually think of an electronic problem behaving that way. I can see it being something electrical - a bad connection, a wire, etc. But it seemed unlikely that was a circuit board. Not impossible, but unlikely.

If it was a wheel speed sensor, I would think that the first sign would have been while I was moving. But that's just a guess. It seems like they generate electricity from the rotation of the wheel, so I would think that wouldn't generate an error with the truck sitting still.

Assuming the guy is right, I was a little skeptical that the pump and control module would be a single unit. That obviously adds a lot to the cost. But I'm seeing that something is oddball about this particular model of truck, so maybe it's true.

I'm reading about a lot of other things that can cause those lights to go on, and I get the feeling that a lot of mechanics don't diagnose, they just start changing parts. That's a game I don't want to play.
When I have an ABS sensor go south...typically the single unit is the rear differential...it lights up the ABS light on the dash and does not go away until the bad sensor is replaced with a good unit. The light stays on with truck running and sitting still or going down the road.

The ABS pump can be tested as described in my above post...the valves are each is tested individually. The ABS control module mounts to the side of the pump and can be seperated. They both came together when I purchased my replacement as they just unplugged the module and snipped the lines. Mine was a bad valve in the pump as tested and no dash lights lit up...which is why I suspected the master cylinder. While in there I went ahead and replaced the hydroboost and flushed the entire system with new DOT 4 fluid.
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:17 AM   #14
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Here are some pictures of my old ABS pump and module. From what I remember, the rubber caps are removed opposite from where the lines are and a paper clip is inserted. Can't remember the exact procedure, but if the valve down in there comes back up, there is a bad valve. This is the only way the pump can be tested.
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:17 AM   #15
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Thanks. I really appreciate that. I couldn't find the paperclip procedure, but what you said makes sense.

I'm going to try to call someone about the module tomorrow. It never made sense to me that they couldn't be separated, but I can see a supplier saying that they only sell them as a pair. But, yeah, you really should know if it's the pump or the module before buying either one.

You filled in some needed pieces. Thanks again.
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Old 02-25-2019, 08:47 AM   #16
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Went back to a thread I started on Ford Truck Enthusiast when I was having issues. To test the pump you remove the rubber dust caps, insert a paper clip, have someone apply the brakes, and if the bore valve inside makes the paper clip rise, you have a bad valve in the pump. The ABS module can be separated from the ABS pump by 4 torx screws. However, you may just unplug the wiring connector and reset it as I have seen some that simply loose connection. I have a spare ABS module, but not sure if it would be the same as yours...probably is, but not sure. If you were closer I would say take it and try it.

I went back and read your original post about the hard shifting. Our middle daughters Ford Edge was engaging reverse harshly and had erratic low speed shifts until warm. Her brakes finally got a hard pedal and I replaced the brake booster. After this, the harsh gear engagements went away. There was an internal leak and apparently the transmission was tied to that booster...found out about it on the Ford Edge forums.
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Old 02-28-2019, 05:50 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by bwguardian View Post
What procedure did he utilize to diagnose the module?

Well I thought my days of crawling around under the hood were behind me. But I may have to do this one myself, because I can't find anyone I can count on to get it right.

I went back to talk to the guy. All he did was hook up a scanner, and compare it to a Ford flow chart. I already had the codes. I asked him how sure he was that the problem was the module, and he showed me the flowchart. I said that I thought that the B1432 code could be a lot of things, and he said, "It can be... but this one is coming from the ABS system, and the flowchart says to replace the module."

Then I asked about him saying that the whole thing had to be replaced (both the electronic module and the pump). He said that's what Ford says to do. That they used to replace just the electronics, but that Ford only sells the two as a unit now.

From everything I've read, the two lights and the B1342 code could be anything from a bad sensor, to a bad connector somewhere down the line. And I don't see any reason why the electronics module can't be replaced separately from the pump/valve body. So pretty much nothing he told me was correct.

So I'm basically right where I started. Honestly, I'm thinking about taking off the instrument bezel, pulling out the bulb, getting it inspected, and driving it like it is.
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Old 03-04-2019, 09:26 PM   #18
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Scott, have you checked tha battery and alternator? I had an experience once where the alternator went out which drained the battery slowly. But when that happens, trannys don’t shift properly and all kinds of strange lights come on. Just make sure they are both up to snuff if you can’t pinpoint a definite problem.
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Old 03-06-2019, 06:40 PM   #19
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Scott, have you checked tha battery and alternator? I had an experience once where the alternator went out which drained the battery slowly. But when that happens, trannys don’t shift properly and all kinds of strange lights come on. Just make sure they are both up to snuff if you can’t pinpoint a definite problem.

I hadn't thought about it, but voltage problems make sense. I'll give that a look.

I found a YouTube video about a scanner that was just very cool. You can do things like send a code to manually start/stop the ABS pump to see if it's working. It sure would help to troubleshoot a lot of things. It's only about $4K.
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Old 03-07-2019, 10:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pocjetty View Post
I hadn't thought about it, but voltage problems make sense. I'll give that a look.

I found a YouTube video about a scanner that was just very cool. You can do things like send a code to manually start/stop the ABS pump to see if it's working. It sure would help to troubleshoot a lot of things. It's only about $4K.
There is a way cheaper app called FORScan...look it up, plenty of info. about it in the F150 section of Ford Truck Enthusiast.
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