Shoalwater deck removal and rebuild - 2CoolFishing
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Old 07-28-2019, 06:39 PM   #1
*DoubleThreat*
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Shoalwater deck removal and rebuild

Ok guys need more help, now that it’s determined the Hull is waterlogged help me fix this. So I’ve been scouring yt and other good forums I think I’ve derived a plan. So I think I need to mark 3” from all sides to cut the floor to give a good piece to tab to, then the rest is see what’s rotted trash and replace all that is. Sound like a solid start plan? I’ve done wood/glass work but not to this extent, luckily the deck is all flat with no hatches other than the one built up at the transom. I’ll be posting some pics up as I dig in how bad it really is. Also, new foam or no foam?Throw the do’s and don’t at me, thanks
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Old 07-31-2019, 02:49 PM   #2
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I ended up replacing my whole deck because of a soft spot. good luck I paid for it to be done but would love to learn how to do It
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Old 08-22-2019, 10:03 AM   #3
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So looks like water somehow got into the front by the hatch from sitting over the years. The back and transom were solid,looks like the front middle stringer and plywood are rotten. By the way,i guess in 96 shoalwater did NOT resin coat or glass the bottom side of the plywood, its all pretty wet and heavy from front to back. The foam is wet about 1" all the way around but not saturated to the middle. Such a pain to remove,not the best method is a sharp machete and shovel and I'm prying up whole chunks.
Once I get the removal done,looking for suggestions. Coosa board? plywood glassed top and bottom? Fiberglass sheets?
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Old 08-22-2019, 12:30 PM   #4
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so i had my 1975 20 foot mako redone in 2012. i didn't know what i know now, or i would have done it completely different. if possible, i'd recommend having the compartments under the deck, sealed so as water can't possibly get to the foam. it's sounds like a common sense no brainier, and it is. but doing it, is a different story, and especially if having it done for you. so if you have to add a divider board/glassed here or there, to separate areas, do so. hope this makes sense. i feel like my hull may be waterlogged and just paid to have it done. not happy. but will be upgrading to a smoother bigger hull for out-front, so just buying time now. smh
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:00 PM   #5
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Dude, I do not envy you , that's a heck of a job. Keep hydrated and take lots of breaks!
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Old 08-22-2019, 06:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c hook View Post
i'd recommend having the compartments under the deck, sealed so as water can't possibly get to the foam. it's sounds like a common sense no brainier, and it is. but doing it, is a different story, and especially if having it done for you. so if you have to add a divider board/glassed here or there, to separate areas, do so. hope this makes sense. i feel like my hull may be waterlogged and just paid to have it done. not happy. but will be upgrading to a smoother bigger hull for out-front, so just buying time now. smh
Spot on, it really just takes some planning, and care to do it right from a boaters perspective. End up with a better boat, not the same problem again and again.
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Old 08-28-2019, 11:55 AM   #7
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Would suggest after you rip all your foam out fill the bottom of the boat up an inch or two of water to make sure you don’t have any cracks in the hull or delaminated stringers...I learned the hard way..

I would say .5-3/4 AC fir plywood for your deck. Not saying that optimal but it is cost effective and fairly easy to work with.
One or two coats of polyester or vinyl ester resin on bottom of each sheet should seal it pretty well.

Other quick tips are when refoaming don’t fill to the top of stringer has potential for deck to swell over time. Make sure you get UNWAXED gelcoat and add wax on the final coat. And polyester resins over epoxies do not like each other unless properly prepped.

If you have anymore questions shoot me a P.M no means an expert but I’ve picked up a few tricks
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Old 08-28-2019, 01:45 PM   #8
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core

If you go back with wood and want it to last, glass top and bottom of ply with Epoxy resin. It is more expensive but holds up way better.
Fir will check if only resin coated.

you can look into Nidacore as a core material for deck.

Do your home work and really make sure you like the boat because it is a hard but rewarding task.
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Old 08-28-2019, 10:56 PM   #9
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Use Marine Plywood. Seal it first with some epoxy. Glass over with epoxy and seal it tightly to the stringers with thickened epoxy. Plenty of rebuild threads on THT for some education. Check out Andy Miller of Boatworks Today on Youtube. Sign up to be a Patreon supporter and you can have email consultations during your rebuild. https://www.youtube.com/user/boatworkstoday

From what I've seen, doing it yourself ensures that you get exactly what you want, but it cost twice as much as you thought and takes about three times as long as you thought.
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