Chevy hydro boost/assist - 2CoolFishing
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:47 PM   #1
goodwood
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Chevy hydro boost/assist

Changed out powersteering pump and hydro boost on a 2001 suburban 2500 with a 6.0. Brake pedal mushy, steering stiff and lots of bubbles in the return line. Ran it in the driveway with the return in the pan and bubbles wont stop. Drove around the hood with same results. Any tips or tricks to get my equipment back to normal?
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:19 PM   #2
housewolf
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Try lifting the front end and put it on jack stands. Turn the wheel from stop to stop (left to right) 25 - 30 times. Add fluid as needed. Keep doing it until you're getting no bubbles in the reservoir.

ETA: without the motor running.
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Old 01-19-2015, 08:05 PM   #3
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Tried the jack up and turn method with no resolution. Got an oem pump at the stealership and it's working just fine now. That's twice I got a bad part from Rockauto. It was a reman AC Delco. No more Autozone parts for me either.
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Old 01-19-2015, 10:11 PM   #4
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How big of a challenge was it changing out your hydro-boost. Mine has started leaking and trying to figure if I want to take it on or drop it off for my mechanic.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:17 PM   #5
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I changed my hydroboost unit on my 07 Duramax about a year ago. It's not too bad. Getting under the dash to remove the 4 nuts that hold the hydroboost to the firewall is kind of a pain. The worst part was getting the studs of the new hydroboost into the holes on the firewall. The holes are not elongated in anyway, so it was kind of tough getting it positioned where I could start and tighten the nuts. Aside from that, it's fairly easy.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked wades View Post
How big of a challenge was it changing out your hydro-boost. Mine has started leaking and trying to figure if I want to take it on or drop it off for my mechanic.
Pretty easy. 2 16mm nuts hold the master cylinder and hyro together. 18mm wrench to remove the lines plus pliers for the return line. 15mm deep socket for firewall nuts interior side. I just used a long extension with a u joint. Needle nose to take off the brake light connector clip. Install in reverse order. If you buy oem you dont have to deal with removing the rod/pin out of the hydro boost. Not too tough. I went through 2 from autozone before i bought oem. First one the threads were jacked up and didnt want to deal with a tap. Second one the rod that connects the brake pedal came off the booster. i aint ever buying their **** again.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:45 PM   #7
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To me this is the dumbest thing ever. Mine gave me no warning while I was in a parking lot when it went out. Lost power brakes and steering and almost ran into several cars. Dealership said the brake lines needed flushing which caused it to lock up. Sounds fishy but hasn't done it again.
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Old 01-27-2015, 03:55 AM   #8
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Thanks for the info. Taking it on this weekend before I forget to check fluid for power steering and end up burning up the power steering pump.
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