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Mono vs Braid vs Fluorocarbon Line

7K views 26 replies 19 participants last post by  Skavatar 
#1 ·
Didn’t want to hi jack the thread on mono line so I thought I would get thoughts on pros and cons on the different types of lines. I really like braid but find it a little expensive since I am now on a fixed income.

I have setups in both braid and mono. Since I fish braid more than mono, when I do fish mono it seems very stretchy and I feel like I miss a lot of hookups. I’ve thought about fluorocarbon because it doesn’t have as much stretch, or a hybrid.

Any helpful thoughts or thoughts on a less expensive alternative to braid. I love the sensitivity of braid. Thanks
 
#2 ·
Of all the expenses of going fishing your line is very cheap. Spool it up with braid for the sensitivity. Use a 4-6ft section of leader (mono or fluoro - i use Big Game) and you wont use much braid at all when retying use till that leader is less than a foot then retie another leader. Should last you years like this.

5 years from now if your braid is too fraid or doesnt fill your spool enough....take it off....refill the gap with mono....flip the braid opposite direction amd what was against the spool arbor is now brand new line ready for next 5 years.
 
#6 ·
Of all the expenses of going fishing your line is very cheap. Spool it up with braid for the sensitivity. Use a 4-6ft section of leader (mono or fluoro - i use Big Game) and you wont use much braid at all when retying use till that leader is less than a foot then retie another leader. Should last you years like this.

5 years from now if your braid is too fraid or doesnt fill your spool enough....take it off....refill the gap with mono....flip the braid opposite direction amd what was against the spool arbor is now brand new line ready for next 5 years.
^^^^THIS^^^

Academy has a 300 yard spool of Power Pro for $19.99. That's enough to do two reels. Braid can easily last 5 years using a leader line. That means that it costs you $2.00 per year, per reel. I imagine that you spend more than that on reel oil.
 
#10 ·
Braid is so slick it bites down into itself. So anytime you catch a fish or even simply the pressure of setting the hook with no fish there will pull that line down into the rest of the spool. Then you reel and cast again. When your line gets to that point on the spool it comes to an abrubt stop with no backlash due to the line snugged down into the rest of the spool.

You see this a lot with any braid size under 30# test. Although 40# test is way overkill it will limit the braid spool bite on hook set.
 
#17 ·
Same here. (besides on one of my casting setups for mirrolures and CORKYS, I use braid)I like how fluorocarbon sinks faster than braid and mono so I use it for jigs and tails. You have to baby it at times but man I can cut through the wind and feel EVERY BITE. Use a quality line conditioner and line, don’t use that vanish ****, your lure will do just that, VANISH.
 
#14 ·
I agree, 30 is the better size for casting reels for sure.

One exception - Smackdown from Seaguar is super thin.. go with the 40lb.

I'm assuming you're talking about Grems description of the line biting into itself. Some of that is brand dependent.. Slick 8 seems to do it a lot, while Suffix performance ( a much thicker braid) does not. All the rest of the lines seem somewhere in between.

I put braid on spool, then I go outside and tie the end to a tree limb and back way down the street (football feild might work or something similar), then after I hit the bottom of the spool I tighten the drag down and reel it all back on with tension. This won't stop it all from happening but the base is on super tight and makes what is on the spool less 'cushy'.

Luckily I live on a long street and I just have to look cray cray for a couple of minutes but it works for me LOL.
 
#15 ·
I agree, 30 is the better size for casting reels for sure.

One exception - Smackdown from Seaguar is super thin.. go with the 40lb.

I'm assuming you're talking about Grems description of the line biting into itself. Some of that is brand dependent.. Slick 8 seems to do it a lot, while Suffix performance ( a much thicker braid) does not. All the rest of the lines seem somewhere in between.

I put braid on spool, then I go outside and tie the end to a tree limb and back way down the street (football feild might work or something similar), then after I hit the bottom of the spool I tighten the drag down and reel it all back on with tension. This won't stop it all from happening but the base is on super tight and makes what is on the spool less 'cushy'.

Luckily I live on a long street and I just have to look cray cray for a couple of minutes but it works for me LOL.
I prefer 4 strand braid, which is why I use Windtamer. Sufix Performance has worked well for me as well.

The main reason I stick to Windtamer, I witnessed a Jack Cravalle get hauled in after an hour of chasing it down in POC on 30# Windtamer.. It kind of sold me on it considering he was still using it afterwards for the rest of the day.

Best part about it was all the shrimp soaker guys around Mitchell's cut looked at us like he was stupid hung up on the bottom running in circles back and forward
 

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#16 · (Edited)
You can also make a super long cast. Pull out another 10 yards or so. Then put a few wraps of electrical tape at that deep point mid spool. It will limit this as well.

30 is plenty as your reel best case scenario with best of the best drag washers will only give you about 15#. I know some claim more but lock down your drag and put a scale to it. 15 is A LOT! You feel like it is going to pull younout of the boat or break your rod. But 30# is a lot and what i use on most of my gear including my bigwater stuff. And we land many dozens of sharks 6' -8' long every year.

All of these caught on 30# and landed in about 30 mins. My bass rods, trout rods, offshore trolling rods all have 30.

Some of my heavy cover flipping sticks have 50.
 

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#19 ·
Everyone has their opinion and I am not here to contradict anyone. Here's what works for me.

I almost never use mono anymore. Except as shock leaders. Spectra is more cost effective on the long run, doesn't curl in cold weather, no stretch, thinner, extremely good bite sensitivity etc etc.. Only time I use mono as a main line is on a big game trolling reel. Even then the backing is spectra.

If you're fishing with braid/spectra mainline, fast action rods and going after hard fighting and hitting species where extreme hook sets are necessary, a mono shock leader gives you that added stretch/bungee cord/shock absorbing effect. Most fluorocarbon do not stretch. Neither does spectra.

I find that fluorocarbon has properties that are suitable for certain applications and I use it when I'm catching a lot of fish with abrasive mouths during the course of a days fishing, which will wear down mono pretty quick. Fluoro is extremely hard and abrasion resistant but have NO stretch. They are not easy to make a good knot and require you to use the right kind of knot and cinch it down well. This way I don't have check and change my leader often.

I also use it when fishing extremely clear water for shy fish because fluorocarbon is practically invisible in water. Sometimes when fly lining small live anchovies on small hooks to line to shy yellowfin tuna, fluorocarbon is almost a must.

Each has it's advantages. When we pop for big fish offshore, we almost always use a combination of a spectra mainline, mono shock leader spliced to a short section of fluorocarbon leader. Using wire only as a last resort for wahoo, mackerel etc.

For my inshore fishing, 20/30# spectra mainline to a short 12-18" section of 20# fluorocarbon leader is all I use, because my rod has a enough action to absorb the more energetic hooksets, fluorocarbon has the abrasion resistance I need with trout, flounder and reds and is nearly invisible when the water is clear. Fluorocarbon has the added property of being heavier than water so it sinks compared to mono. Helping get lighter jigs down faster.

Just me 2 cents worth. :smile:
 
#22 ·
12lbs. Stren original is what I use. If I am on reefs I use a short braid leader for cut resistance. It ends up being a little more expensive in the long run because it needs to be changed often. I have tried braid but can't stand the vibration caused when it runs through guides. I catch just as many fish as the the guys standing next to me on the boat throwing braid so I don't go for the missing hook ups theory. Many times when my buddy's braid stops in mid flight, the plastic keeps on going into forever. Try them all and decide for yourself. That's how I got back to what I really like.
 
#24 ·
They all have their attributes...and shortcomings.

If you are after cutting expenses but still want to enjoy the sensitivity of braid use it as a top shot over mono as backing. Make the braid top shot as long as you normally cast and then connect it to your mono backing. The mono will last longer under the braid and of course the braid will last several years. When you change it out just replace the top shot. A 100 yard spool of braid could easily last 15 years or more when used this way with several change outs...and that is inexpensive by most any standards.

Flouro is the best leader material, IMO. Has the lowest visibility, does not stretch, and sinks whereas mono does not. It also lasts far longer than mono exposed to light.

The only times I use mono these days are as backing as described above, as a leader for top water fishing, and specialty situations like long distance casting where I use a top shot of 50 lb. mono.
 
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