I suggest oznium.com. Nothing against the other companies out there including the ones listed above. I do agree that Cree LEDs are very nice and a durable product also bright. I have purchased from oznium.com for around four years and still have the same LED's in use I purchased four years ago. He also stands by all of his products including ones you have had installed for I believe up to a year with full replacement. I also agree with the color suggestion from earlier post warm white above water does cut the water better than a white light or a cool white. Green both under and above water with enough brightness works really well also.
I use them for gigging....not a purpose built flounder boat at all but sure expands my opportunities.
08-14-2013 06:13 PM
fwiw found another sight with a similar products http://www.light-headed.net bet there are others out there as well. Still the cost of the crees and drivers add up.
08-14-2013 05:49 PM
I noticed the thread on plashlight's 2 row led light bar https://www.2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/sh...d.php?t=520641. Now it's not intended as a floundering light, but I had to respect it's specs a bit 40 x 3 watt cree's. I am not reading his lumen numbers well though. At 120 watts, am betting it will at least come close to a HPS light in directed lumens, less amps at the expense of dollars though.
08-13-2013 06:23 PM
Ya'll just buy one from Smack...his are awesome!
08-13-2013 06:22 PM
Warm white above water for sure, cool white refkects more than penetrates
I tried compact fluorescents for flounder lights, but they were not durable enough. Been using HPS since.
08-13-2013 04:16 PM
Yellow Mouth Chaser
I appreciate all the info guys. I think we will go with the tried and true method for now.
08-13-2013 11:26 AM
Did a few clicks and noticed that Cree just came out with their own flavor of LED street light. The article mentioned a few interesting tidbits. They are stating 65% more efficient and less light pollution. Their new street lights are 25w and 42 watt and intended to replace 100 watt street lights. What is not said is that many street lights are more than 100 watts. I noticed another forum mentioning that many were 400 watts, and likewise found sites talking about HPS greater than 1000 watts. That site mentioned that the 400 watt street lights are putting out +50k lumens - where the new crees 2.7k and 4.1k (abet that seems off). Main issue here is that a 25 to 42 watt CREE is not going to put out the same light as a 400 watt HPS flounder light.
I have played with metal halide, florescent, compact florescent and led grow lights for my aquarium. LED is getting there - but it's not cheep yet. I really need to dig out my notes and start on the NEXT replacement light (as the led's I have now just don't cut it). Perhaps a pair of 60 watt arrays might get me close - but then I am back to putting the almost the same amount of energy I was using with the florescent and compact florescent - and will be having almost the same heat problems of the metal halide.
08-13-2013 10:33 AM
This thread is relevant to my interests. I can only make guesses.
1) LED's are still somewhat new. On the top of the food chain, metal halide and sodium vapor are very effective lights - they may just not be the most efficient anymore. While in the long run, we will probably slowly start seeing more and more LED's replacing them due to long term lower operating costs, in the short term - there are still a LOT of street lights, road lights, and sporting lights that have not been converted. Ultimately, cost/benefit here is the king - it costs more to replace a working light than you will save, just wait till it breaks then replace it.
2) Arrays that can actually replace the output of a 500 watt metal halide or sodium vapor are still quite expensive.
3) The push to put the lights underwater may be more to use the new tech than to see more fish. Water absorbs a LOT more light than air, even when the water is very clear. Add to that some really bad angles (the light is shinning nearly parallel to the surface you want to illuminate). Even after discounting the reflection of the overhead light - light shined perpendicular to the surface you want to illuminate will work a LOT better.
All of that is theory - but the fact is that tried and true methods are working and change is difficult and often expensive. I am starting from scratch - so hope I can find good evidence, rather than marketing, before I invest in a lighting solution.
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