Should be able to turn around 6000


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

you need to seat the pistons well. I would run WOT a lot when you first run it. Big mistake not to.

See other threads in the Boating Forum on this.... just read one earlier

 

The motor is in break in mode until 10-20 hours dependent on motor. It limits the rpm until break in is completed and the computer will allow full rpm from that point on.

 

Ahhh...learn something new everyday...the ecu is preset to govern Rpms until the "preset" break in period has been reached? Thanks!

It is not a SHO.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Is it a 200 SHO?

 

Would I expect to see the same from a 2015 Yamaha 200 SHO? If so, it doesn't make sense to try to prop until after the break in.

Koncept1, when did you get full throttle?

I have 9 hours on mine now and only getting at best 5100 rpm.

 

You might be over propped, motor too low, not trimmed correctly etc...

No problem running WOT after you have done the first few hours of break in. Don't run at any rpm for more than 5 mins for the first 10 hours.

 

How often do you run the boat light? Why would you want to prop it that way? Like I said 6000 minus a couple of hundred gives about 5800 in a normal loaded condition. The end result of both methods are the same, an rpm of 5800 or so in the heat. The key factor is how much difference in load between light and normal.

Cliff

 

How often do you have a few extra guys standing around the shop with a full fishing load in there pocket to do a PDI run.

 

That is why dealers like to set it up light. That is also why many customers have the issue that the OP has. When they go out for a trip with a full load of fuel, people, tackle, ice, etc the engine won't turn enough rpm.

I always set one boat up with a full load and then I knew what was the right prop for the others we sold in the future.

Cliff

 

The op is 1000 off that boat was probably propped to 5500 light. The dealer probably didnt take him on a test run or show him how to trim it either. If you start off over propped adding a load will not help.

 

You are probably exactly right.

Cliff

 

There are a lot of dealers that never run a boat in the water when they sell them. They just put in a few gallons of gas, start the engine and let them go. Those customers have the worst problems when they get to the water.

Cliff

 

Looks like the OP is running a 22 foot bay boat with a 200 inline 4 then added a T top.
The F150/F200 is the minimum recommended power on that boat. If you want to run the boat at max load capacity you cant go with the min power and expect any performance. Boat needs a V 6

Just noticed the original post is over a year old, and I'm outa beer. LOL Later

 

Looks like the OP is running a 22 foot bay boat with a 200 inline 4 then added a T top.
The F150/F200 is the minimum recommended power on that boat. If you want to run the boat at max load capacity you cant go with the min power and expect any performance. Boat needs a V 6

That's the other problem with some dealers. They sell the boat with minimum equipment to get the price down. They are looking to get first time buyers that don't know better. When they figure out they need more stuff it is too late. Then when the customer has a problem, too bad. Several companies have done that that I can think of.

Cliff

 

My apologies for the confusion. I resurfaced this thread because of the comments from EvansMarine regarding Rev limiter during break in. My issues point to prop selection from dealer.

I'll repost later on my specifics for advise.

Thanks,
fish