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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've got approx. 110 ft. of wooden privacy fence that needs to be repaired or replaced. I've been thinking about this and trying to save some money. I can do the tear down, and replace rails and pickets, but looking for someone that can auger out the holes larger and set straight in concrete the 4x4 posts and trim to length. Once I've got tear down complete this should probably only take about a day to complete. Can you guys recommend someone for this type of work or have an approx. cost of hiring someone to auger holes and set in concrete the fence posts? Any reccommendations or advice is appreciated, Thanks.
 

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Fence people are going to be busy for many months now...my neighbor's son has a fence company...he said new ,1st class cedar pickets are $3.28 each...figure that out//....$7.00 per foot not including post and 2x4's....I've benn thinking of replacing mine with metal posts and Ubolt the 2x4 to them .....if you did that + dry wall screw the pickets ,wouldn't it be much stronger????
 

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you'll need a Bobcat to pull out old posts if it was set in concrete

I built my own fence and here's what I did

cut old posts down to ground level where post meets concrete footing
rent auger from HomeDepot
drill new hole next to old hole 3ft deep by 8"
to set a straight line: drive a stake at one end of fence line , tie a line to
that stake, pull tight and tie off at the other stake at the other end of fence line

that line should be 1-2 in offset from the middle of the hole, line
dictates where the edge of your new posts will be; if all your posts rest on that
line , they will all be in a straight line

put post in hole next to line, jam it in, pour concrete in the hole, while holding
post in hand plumb it with a level, and do it on all 4 sides, with that much concrete
in the hole you do not need to support the post, (unless very windy)

move on to next post, concrete will set in about 15min-30 min, 24hr to cure

use good screws: the yellow variety that's Teflon coated

my fence was 4" x 8ft western red cedar board on board with galvanized posts, quote
for the fence was $8500; I did it for $2500 in supplies; 3-4 hrs each day, 2 full
weekends for 3 weeks.

Do it yourself and save some money
 

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Before you start digging(from experience)....check for:
*Gas Line
*Water Line
*Cable TV Line
*Expensive Fiber Optic Lines
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Galvbay, I saw that craigslist post and was heavily considering buying pickets from that guy, but it has since been removed and I don't have his phone number.
 

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Save some time, use a chain, a cement block and use a 10 ft board as a lever to pull the posts out of the ground. They will come out easier than you think.
 

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reese said:
Save some time, use a chain, a cement block and use a 10 ft board as a lever to pull the posts out of the ground. They will come out easier than you think.
Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.
Archimedes
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The posts are concreted in but just barely. The fence builder dug holes just barely big enough for the post to fit into the ground and they concreted around the post, I guess trying to save money on concrete. The concreted end of the post in just barely larger than the post itself, thus the reason the post and fence fell over. I pretty sure I can pull these out of the ground by hand fairly easily, I've done it before with larger posts and more concrete on the end. I don't mind doing the tear down and putting up the new rails and pickets but I really don't like augering the new holes and setting the new posts in concrete.
 

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My neighbor wants to split the cost of the fence we share. She will be getting the "pretty" side. Is it customary to do a 50/50 split? Or should she pay more since she is getting the "pretty" side?
 

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Wrap the bottom of your posts in 30# tar paper up to grade level and bring the concrete above grade as well with some slope so water will not puddle in the hole (and rot the posts) and they will last forever.
 

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WilliamH said:
Do a "neighbor" fence where you alternate the pretty side and the ugly side every panel between posts.
^^^ What this guy said.

I certainly wouldn't pay 50% for an all-ugly side!
 

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What part of digging holes and pouring concrete in holes are trying to avoid. It seems like you are already doing a lot of work removing. Even a hand operated post hole digger is not that bad. Ready mix concrete is easy to use. just pour hole about 1/3 full to steady post, add a little water, stir/poke with rod to mix and add more concrete and water to top of hole. By the way after Alecia I rebuilt my fence with metal post concreted in ground and bolted cross boards to it. It was standing after Ike (we sold the house 10 years ago) and the eye went right over Pasadena. Fences on both sides were down.
 

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Don't forget to add 6-8" of pea gravel to the bottom of the post holes so the end of the new posts doesn't sit on soil. I always give the ends of the posts an extra shot of sealer before I set them. Be sure to hit the tops of the posts after you cut the off too.

The quickset concrete that you just dump in the hole and add water to is easy to use but will get expensive quick too. It takes about 1 1/2-2 50LB bags per post hole.

Posts are a little hard to find right now too, I got the last 3 from the local Lowe's the other day. They got more in later in the afternoon and there was a line of folks waiting on them. PT 2x4's and 4" & 6" pickets were plentiful though.

Below are material prices at Lowe's as of this past TUE 23 SEP:
4x4x8' PT posts were about $6.97 ea
2x4x8' PT were $3.70 ea
4"x6' dog ear pickets were $1.70 ea
50LB sacks of pea gravel were $3.62 ea
50LB sacks of quick set concrete were $5.64 ea

GOOD LUCK!!

Jeff
 

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Shared Fence

WilliamH said:
Do a "neighbor" fence where you alternate the pretty side and the ugly side every panel between posts.
Neighbor wants rot boards on the bottom to add some height for her days when she is laying out getting a tan by the pool. Contractor told me that he cannot do a "neighbor" fence with the rot boards on the bottom.
What would yall consider to be a fair split for an all "ugly" side fence?
 

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10ERBETTER said:
Neighbor wants rot boards on the bottom to add some height for her days when she is laying out getting a tan by the pool. Contractor told me that he cannot do a "neighbor" fence with the rot boards on the bottom.
What would yall consider to be a fair split for an all "ugly" side fence?
I would think the rot board would be on each pretty side panel. Oh well, what do I know? I have 100' of fence to finish this weekend. I wonder if my MUD or HOA would mind if I put the pretty side facing my yard.
 
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