2 Cool Fishing Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seen several different ways people tow with their outboard. Just wondering what is the best. (Aluminum boatright)
I run mine trimmed up just til the tilt takes over then set back on down on the trim.(hope that makes sense)

I've seen them tilted all the way up and seen some people use the outboard prop that usually rests on the roller.
 

· 2011 Haynie LS 2011 300xs
Joined
·
1,456 Posts
Shakedown said:
Seen several different ways people tow with their outboard. Just wondering what is the best. (Aluminum boatright)
I run mine trimmed up just til the tilt takes over then set back on down on the trim.(hope that makes sense)

I've seen them tilted all the way up and seen some people use the outboard prop that usually rests on the roller.
You are doing it right!!!! Thats how mine is and always will be towed...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,171 Posts
to lower the stress on the transom , you need to be vertical or horizontal to the road. I do not have the option to be horizontal to the road as it will damage the boat so , I try to be as close as possible to vertical line , without hitting the ground in a short ramp . this is not an issue on smooth roads but in rough roads over time , it can be too much stress for the transom .
 

· Borders, language, culture
Joined
·
6,287 Posts
I use a transom saver only because I don't have good road clearance in the vertical position. If you use a transom saver, make sure your boat is tied down TIGHT to the trailer so they ride as one.
 

· POC chunker
Joined
·
9,230 Posts
Don't rely on the motors hydraulics alone to hold the motor in position. Also, a lot of motors (Merc for one) specifically say to not use the tilt support bracket for trailering. One look at the thin metal on it and it is easy to see that it would bend under a good jolt. I'm a fan of the transome saver. If you don't have a roller on your trailer in the rear center to support the one end of the transome saver, a rubber bow v block designed for trailer bow stops will bolt right into that u shaped end of the transom saver and that will then rest right on the rear trailer cross member.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the replies.

My uncle uses a transom saver. He has problems with the rubber wearing out and the screws scaring his lower unit. Probably an easy fix.
Also I do not strap my boat down in the rear.
I'll look into getting a transom saver. Thanks



19' Boatright, Yamaha 150 TRP
 

· Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
Best of luck to those not using a transom saver. If you tow your boat far enough long enough over time you will have issues if you don't use the saver. And for 40$ it's cheap insurance against transom problems. I wish I would have had enough sense to use one for my Gulf Coast.
 

· Cereal Killer
Joined
·
4,155 Posts
I saw a boat with a 150 on it being towed down a fairly rough road the other day. Engine was set at a 45ish degree angle. No transom saver. Every large bump you could see the transom flexing significantly from 100+ feet away. Kinda scarey. I fully expected to see the engine and some fiberglass tear off and go skidding down the road
 

· Team Marsh Member
Joined
·
303 Posts
Shakedown, I don't think that you're going to damage that 3/16" aluminum box transom on your Boatright no matter which position you have the motor. I've towed mine with no problem for 10 years in the fully vertical position with the CMC jackplate about midway up.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
12,873 Posts
As one wise man once told me, if your transom can't take the minor stresses associated with trailering, how to position your engine while trailering is the least of your problems. The stresses applied during actual use of the boat are exponentially higher.

I tilt up and then lower onto the tilt support bracket. YMMV.
 

· POC chunker
Joined
·
9,230 Posts
Ernest said:
As one wise man once told me, if your transom can't take the minor stresses associated with trailering, how to position your engine while trailering is the least of your problems. The stresses applied during actual use of the boat are exponentially higher.

I tilt up and then lower onto the tilt support bracket. YMMV.
Apples to oranges comparison. When running the boat, unless you hit something, the forces are applied over a longer time period. When you hit a bump with the trailer, the force is concentrated in a very short time period generating a very high G loading. That combined with the cyclical bouncing of the motor causes fatigue fractures in aluminum, or will stress crack fiberglass. Also, the direction in which the forces are applied are totally different. With the motor trimmed down, acceleration results in a force applied pretty equally top to bottom across the center of the transom pushing forward. With the motor tilted up on the trailer, the force is applied as a bending/twisting moment that pulls the top of the transom one way while pushing the bottom in the opposite direction. It also generates a force pulling the transom rearward which you seldom get running a boat as no through hub exhaust prop can generate that kind of thrust in reverse because the exhaust bubbles cause prop slippage in reverse. The transom is designed for high forward forces, but not those that pull it rearward like you get when you hit a big bump on the trailer and the motor tilted horizontally. With a long shaft motor, it even worse.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,969 Posts
Oh my dayum. Yall done got all scientific with algorithims and g forces and exponentials and other stuff that I avoided like the plague when picking a major.

I figure if you keep the transom from flexing and the prop from dragging on the street you're probably ok. Use whatever methods neccesary to keep those things from happening.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,226 Posts
He may not have enough tension (downward force) on it. That causes too much friction.
Shakedown said:
Thanks for all the replies.

My uncle uses a transom saver. He has problems with the rubber wearing out and the screws scaring his lower unit. Probably an easy fix.
Also I do not strap my boat down in the rear.
I'll look into getting a transom saver. Thanks

19' Boatright, Yamaha 150 TRP
 

· Registered
Joined
·
12,873 Posts
Pocket - Yeah, you are probably right. Those guys at Robalo don't know what they are talking about. Probably the same fools that worked at B. Whaler and convinced them to repeat it as well.

Sorry for relaying such crazy info. My bad.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
My transom is shot due to not using a transom saver while traveling and I will tell you how I know. Underway the stress cracks in the transom do not show any gap or change due to acceleration. However when you put down force on the motor the cracks gap big time. i haven't had any more cracks and the ones I have are no worse since I started using the transom saver. As I said it is cheap insurance but experience is the best teacher. Time will tell on your boat
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top