terminal rigs
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5,599 Posts
Ill see if I can find one, I think they are in the garage.................................later,Dave
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Here is what I use
Here is what I was shown and it has worked for me so far. Some guys go heavier or lighter on the mono and the cable. Others use coated cable or different sized hooks. Others place their weights differently etc. There are many variations to this but it is fairly simple and it works. I usually reserve the multiple drops for stingray. I was using two hooks in large mullet but missed a lot of runs. Since going to a single drop threaded through the mouth, out the gill, then hooked through the anal vent and out the tail, my hook-up ratio has been better. If the bait is a little mushy, I'll tie wrap the hook in place so it stays in place and the circle hook stays exposed. For a large live mullet, I'll cut the dorsal fin off and just hook it through its back.
I am new to the shark fishing game (just started fishing for them in March) but I have had some success on this set-up. I am sure there are some more experienced guys on here that could give you some better advice.
Here is what I was shown and it has worked for me so far. Some guys go heavier or lighter on the mono and the cable. Others use coated cable or different sized hooks. Others place their weights differently etc. There are many variations to this but it is fairly simple and it works. I usually reserve the multiple drops for stingray. I was using two hooks in large mullet but missed a lot of runs. Since going to a single drop threaded through the mouth, out the gill, then hooked through the anal vent and out the tail, my hook-up ratio has been better. If the bait is a little mushy, I'll tie wrap the hook in place so it stays in place and the circle hook stays exposed. For a large live mullet, I'll cut the dorsal fin off and just hook it through its back.
I am new to the shark fishing game (just started fishing for them in March) but I have had some success on this set-up. I am sure there are some more experienced guys on here that could give you some better advice.
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30,254 Posts
This one does the do for pretty much anything under 7'
Credit to Torpedo for teaching it to me.
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Credit to Torpedo for teaching it to me.
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49 Posts
I will never double crimp my leaders again. I have had to many fish pull them out. It dont matter if i double crimped on uncoated leader or coated they both failed. Now I just backbraid all my cable but if you have to use coated cable then strip some of the coating off and then backbraid it. Thats the strongest way to connect my leader in my opinion.
Thanks for the replies. SB, I would sure like to see that thing stretched out, I still don't understand it very well. SF thanks, even I can understand that diagram. I'll take any drawing, pathetic or not. Just looking for different options so I can experiment. Thanks, Jeff
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30,254 Posts
JDS-
It's just a huge pulley rig. Look at a Breakaway Far-Out and magnify it 250x.
It's just a huge pulley rig. Look at a Breakaway Far-Out and magnify it 250x.
I use a fish finder rig similar to Steeler Fan's, except I make my whole leader (10ft or more) out of stainless cable(usually 480#) with all loops backbraided.
If I'm worried about the cable getting buried in the sand, I'll put a couple of large popping corks on the leader, just above the quick link. I may even put another popping cork on the hook drop, between the quick link and the bait.
I'm definitely not a fan of nylon coated cable. Nylon soaks up salt water like a sponge, then as it dries, the salt is left against the metal part. This caused the metal (even stainless) to corrode fairly fast. I guess if you put a leader in the washer for long enough, you could wash the salt out. With bare cable leaders, a quick rinse in fresh water is all you need. Also with the water soaked through the nylon, you get no benefit from the so called "stealth leader" theory. The salt water gets to the metal, so there is just as much electrical current as if there was no nylon coating at all.
If you make the top part of your leader out of crimped mono, you are asking to get tail cut or a crimp to slip, when you have to put some serious pressure on your leader with a good fish. I've seen 700# mono cut by the tail of something, as it emptied a 16/0 years ago. I have also seen a bunch of crimps slip for one reason or another over the years. Now if I can't backbraid it, I tie it.
If I'm worried about the cable getting buried in the sand, I'll put a couple of large popping corks on the leader, just above the quick link. I may even put another popping cork on the hook drop, between the quick link and the bait.
I'm definitely not a fan of nylon coated cable. Nylon soaks up salt water like a sponge, then as it dries, the salt is left against the metal part. This caused the metal (even stainless) to corrode fairly fast. I guess if you put a leader in the washer for long enough, you could wash the salt out. With bare cable leaders, a quick rinse in fresh water is all you need. Also with the water soaked through the nylon, you get no benefit from the so called "stealth leader" theory. The salt water gets to the metal, so there is just as much electrical current as if there was no nylon coating at all.
If you make the top part of your leader out of crimped mono, you are asking to get tail cut or a crimp to slip, when you have to put some serious pressure on your leader with a good fish. I've seen 700# mono cut by the tail of something, as it emptied a 16/0 years ago. I have also seen a bunch of crimps slip for one reason or another over the years. Now if I can't backbraid it, I tie it.
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45 Posts
I agree with Gundoctor about nylon coated cable. I like it for lighter leaders but the nylon coating does make the strong crimping required for heavy leaders more difficult. I've also never been convinced by the electrolosys theory.gundoctor said:
However I do disagree about crimps slipping. If you use a correctly sized sleeve with the correct tool the leader should break before the crimp slips. Don't use regular pliers, a vice, a hammer, your hands or anything else; use the correct tool. When I worked as deckie on a boat in Madeira I saw blue marlin up to 1200 # landed on single crimped mono leaders. Bear in mind that they were all on 130# tackle using as much as 70# of drag when trying to "plane" a fish up from down deep.
It would be almost impossible for an angler standing on a beach to apply that much pressure to a fish. If a crimp slips under normal circumstances it was crimped incorrectly.
Spike
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49 Posts
when my crimp pulled out on a shark it was crimped proberly. the right sized crimp, crimped with a crimping tool, and everything was right but it pulled right out.
ps. it was also double crimped to.
ps. it was also double crimped to.
Spike, I've got a compound leverage (bolt cutter type crimper) that has 18 inch handles, with cup to cup jaws of the proper size. I also know how to find the right size crimp for the line I'm using.
I still don't trust crimps, so lets just agree to disagree on this one.
I also don't trust any kind of snaps or long line clips as a connection anywhere between my hook and my reel.
I don't even like any knots, swivels, quick links, or clevices in there either, but I haven't found a better way yet, so I'm stuck with them. LOL
I still don't trust crimps, so lets just agree to disagree on this one.
I also don't trust any kind of snaps or long line clips as a connection anywhere between my hook and my reel.
I don't even like any knots, swivels, quick links, or clevices in there either, but I haven't found a better way yet, so I'm stuck with them. LOL
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45 Posts
That I do agree with, the less clips, joints, swivels etc the better.gundoctor said:
What this thread does demonstrate is that you must fish with whatever gives you confidence. I would never tie mono over about 200 # if I had the means to crimp it, Gundoctor would never crimp it if it was tie-able. Our own methods work for us and we fish confidently as a result.
Spike
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