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Guys:

I'm a newbie to rod building having built just 4 to date. Being a traditionalist by nature I have resisted the urge to "spiral" but I think I'm ready to try it. My question starts as a statement; I notice that everyone spirals the guides in a clockwise manner. I'm a lefty so should I spiral the guides around the blank counter clockwise or does it matter?

A.T.
 

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Rapper
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It doesn't matter. Some guys spiral them to the reel side so it's easier in the rod rack. Others spiral the opposite side of the handle to better guide the line with their other hand. All kinds of ways to do it. Personally, I use left hand retrieve reels and spiral mine to the left. Given the same scenerios but different sides, they both fish the same. Randy.
 

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On level wind reels I go to the handle side so I can lay the rod on the deck (on the other side) with no protrusions.
On a salt water reel with no level wind i spiral to the other side so it allows me to only have to push the line with my thumb.
 

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it does not matter really, except if you are fighting a good fish. the purpose of the spiral wrap is to keep line off the blank when it is bent, but when you have a good fish on and you have a light rod the line will slap the rod. if you just turn the rod toward the spiral you can releaf the line slap, so if rod is in left hand and spiral is to the right it is easy to twist the rod to the right, rod is in the right hand it is easier to twist the rod to left when guide are spiral to the left. for this reason if you hold rod in left hand when fishing spiral to right and vice versus. if i turn the reel with my left and held the rod in my right i would spiral to left, because of the awkwardness of it if i didn't.
 

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it does not matter really, except if you are fighting a good fish. the purpose of the spiral wrap is to keep line off the blank when it is bent, but when you have a good fish on and you have a light rod the line will slap the rod.
The purpose of the spiral wrap configuration is to remove the torque and create a more stable rod. With the guides on top of the blank they act like class 2 levers and under load the line wants to go under under the blank which causes the twist that your wrist and arms must fight against. By spiral wrapping the guide train you put the line where it needs to be (underneith the blank) and the rod works for you and not against you.

If your line is slapping the rod there is another problem altogether.
 

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it does not matter really, except if you are fighting a good fish. the purpose of the spiral wrap is to keep line off the blank when it is bent, but when you have a good fish on and you have a light rod the line will slap the rod. if you just turn the rod toward the spiral you can releaf the line slap, so if rod is in left hand and spiral is to the right it is easy to twist the rod to the right, rod is in the right hand it is easier to twist the rod to left when guide are spiral to the left. for this reason if you hold rod in left hand when fishing spiral to right and vice versus. if i turn the reel with my left and held the rod in my right i would spiral to left, because of the awkwardness of it if i didn't.
I don't quite understand how you are getting line slap with tension on the end of the line. If there is a fish, rock, limb etc... pullin gon the end of the line it should be tight when you reel against it, correct?
 

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if you have a large fish on and and he runs left or right, a small rod will have drag between the last to guides from the bend sometimes, u just twist the rod a little and the line will pickup, this is what so great about spiral wrap..... i hope this helps bennie.
 

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qtrods

my experence with spiral wrapped guides is the ability to fight a fish. we have hundreds of different type guides on the market. the price of the guide is determined by the hardness of the ring which cost more to polish. the harder the ring the better the line flows and less heat build. my experence with repairing fishing reel is that one of the parts they improved in the last 40 year is the drags. the drags on all of the reels today are excellent. so if you have a rod that has the guides on the top of the blank and it bends more than likely the line will go between the guide causing drag on the line and counteract the drag and your gold cerement guides.
 

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I have never heard just hogwash QT.
If a casting rod is set-up correctly with guides on top, even with the rod doubled over the fishing line is NOT going to pass under the blank and even if it does, this will not produce any additional drag it will however create more stress on the blank between the guides at that point.
 

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QTRODS

I have never heard just hogwash QT.
If a casting rod is set-up correctly with guides on top, even with the rod doubled over the fishing line is NOT going to pass under the blank and even if it does, this will not produce any additional drag it will however create more stress on the blank between the guides at that point.
ARE YOU TELLING ME THAT WHAT I WROTE DOES NOT MAKE ANY SINCE TO YOU. IF YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND I CAN SEND YOU A VIDEO. YOU KNOW IT IS TRUE THAT YOU CAN PUT ENOUGH GUIDE ON TOP OF A ROD TO NOT HAVE ANY LINE DRAG ON THE BLANK. BUT HERE WE GO AGAIN TO THE IDEAL THAT SPIRAL WRAPPED GUIDES ALLOW US TO PUT LESS GUIDES ON RODS. LESS GUIDE, CAST FURTHER MORE SESITIVITY IN THE BLANK. THIS IS ALL I'M SAYING ON THE MATTER. I'M TRYING TO HELP SOMEONE OUT WITH MY ROD BUILDING KNOWLEDGE THROUGH MY POSTING NOT AFFEND YOU.................BENNIE
 

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if you have a large fish on and and he runs left or right, a small rod will have drag between the last to guides from the bend sometimes, u just twist the rod a little and the line will pickup, this is what so great about spiral wrap..... i hope this helps bennie.
Please explane as I don't understand what your saying.
 

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ARE YOU TELLING ME THAT WHAT I WROTE DOES NOT MAKE ANY SINCE TO YOU. IF YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND I CAN SEND YOU A VIDEO. YOU KNOW IT IS TRUE THAT YOU CAN PUT ENOUGH GUIDE ON TOP OF A ROD TO NOT HAVE ANY LINE DRAG ON THE BLANK. BUT HERE WE GO AGAIN TO THE IDEAL THAT SPIRAL WRAPPED GUIDES ALLOW US TO PUT LESS GUIDES ON RODS. LESS GUIDE, CAST FURTHER MORE SESITIVITY IN THE BLANK. THIS IS ALL I'M SAYING ON THE MATTER. I'M TRYING TO HELP SOMEONE OUT WITH MY ROD BUILDING KNOWLEDGE THROUGH MY POSTING NOT AFFEND YOU.................BENNIE
Ah, but that is not what you said previously. I certainly agree that using a spiral configuration will most of the time allow one to use fewer guides and that few guides will weigh less and less weight (mass) will allow for increased sensitivity. That is true. However, you said,

"so if you have a rod that has the guides on the top of the blank and it bends more than likely the line will go between the guide causing drag on the line and counteract the drag and your gold cerement guides".

The above statement is far from true and only the poorest of guide positioning will result in the line rubbing on the blank causing added friction. The drag from that friction is not enough to counter any advantage gained by using ceramic ring guides even the Fuji gold cermets.
However, the heat produced by the friction could damage the line easily.

You did NOT offend me at all Bennie but your statements were not factual and if fact misleading to a novice.
 

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Guys:

I'm a newbie to rod building having built just 4 to date. Being a traditionalist by nature I have resisted the urge to "spiral" but I think I'm ready to try it. My question starts as a statement; I notice that everyone spirals the guides in a clockwise manner. I'm a lefty so should I spiral the guides around the blank counter clockwise or does it matter?

A.T.
If you are using a reel with a line winder, it doesn't matter much.
If you are using a real reel tho, then I'd rather transition on the side opposite the handle, because that's the side you will be hand leveling the line from.
Another reason to go on the side opposite the handle is because the handle side of a reel is usually heavier (handle + gearbox). Transitioning will always invoke some torque (amount depends on the method), so going on the side opposite the handle side of the reel lets that torque and the reel off-center-balance counteract each other.
 

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it does not matter really, except if you are fighting a good fish. the purpose of the spiral wrap is to keep line off the blank when it is bent, but when you have a good fish on and you have a light rod the line will slap the rod. if you just turn the rod toward the spiral you can releaf the line slap, so if rod is in left hand and spiral is to the right it is easy to twist the rod to the right, rod is in the right hand it is easier to twist the rod to left when guide are spiral to the left. for this reason if you hold rod in left hand when fishing spiral to right and vice versus. if i turn the reel with my left and held the rod in my right i would spiral to left, because of the awkwardness of it if i didn't.
if you have a large fish on and and he runs left or right, a small rod will have drag between the last to guides from the bend sometimes, u just twist the rod a little and the line will pickup, this is what so great about spiral wrap..... i hope this helps bennie.
Huh? Say What?
Purpose of a spiral is not to keep the line off the blank. The purpose is to turn a conventional into stabile rod. A conventional with guides all on top will torque under load. Guides on the bottom, like a spinning rod will not. So a spiral is in some ways a spinning rod with a conventional reel.

Line slap under load? Sounds like you are not talking about line slap, which is a casting thing. You are talking about the line rubbing the rod under load. And that is something you know about and address in heavy load static testing ad tuning. It is certainly not something that 'just happens' because it is a spiral.

Fish goes left or right? Matters little on a spiral, because the spiral will try point to the fish. Which of course is what we are all supposed to do anyway, but the spiral is predisposed to do so.

And if setup properly in static testing, there should be nothing special about the last few guides in terms of performance under loads. If you are getting odd results under good loads as you seem to suggest, then it sounds like you didn't static test and tune under similar loads. Personally, I static test each at 30% of high line rating,,,, which is sometimes beyond the capability of the reel I will mount up. There should be no surprises on the water if you address them in the shop.
 

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qt rods

did i say that yall where wrong in what yalll said. i agree with you one hundred persent, but what i said is true. yall must salt water fish where you can bust the drag loose and let them roll, fish lake fork or toledo bend with a medium light rod and jump old bucketmouth off then you will see what i'm talking about and like i said iwill send you a video to..............bennie
 

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did i say that yall where wrong in what yalll said. i agree with you one hundred persent, but what i said is true. yall must salt water fish where you can bust the drag loose and let them roll, fish lake fork or toledo bend with a medium light rod and jump old bucketmouth off then you will see what i'm talking about and like i said iwill send you a video to..............bennie
Can you translate into English?

SW is going to bend 'em a whole lot more than some FW bass will. FW bass guys are typically 20-25 lb max blank ratings, and they ain't catching 20-25 lb fish, nor are they making 7.5# drags sing. Heck, most of their reels can't even do close to that drag.
In SW it is fairly common for the fish to outweigh the max blank rating, and for drags at 30% of rating to sing significantly.

And regardless of that, the line effects you seem to be alluding to in your posts are not inherent in loaded spirals. Does not matter if you are talking FW or SW, as that is just a difference of scale. If you are having issues, then you need to address them in the build and design.

Beyond a video, why don't you just post clear pics of your problem spiral? With no line load and with significant line load.
 
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