[RaiderRed]

Any suggestions to prevent Size A NCP thread from changing shades once epoxied?

I built two trout rods for a silent auction benefiting the Coastal Bend chapter of Texas Tech Alumni Association's scholarship fund. The rods will go to auction tonight and hopefully will fetch a considerable profit, even though the red is now the shade of AGGIE MAROON!

I'm not sure the color change is attributed to the thin thread laying on top of the matte graphite blank or some other factor. Even the double wraps over guide feet came out maroon. I have never had this problem with red D NCP thread on both offshore and shark rods.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated. All aggies keep laughter to a minimum. My aggie boss' laughter from within is enough to rattle this red raider.

 

[Arlon]

About 3 coats of color preservative, first coat cut 50/50 with water.. Used to work for me. Let them dry overnight between coats.

 

[Doubless]

I think I would go with non-NCP thread, assuming you can find the color(s) you prefer. If you are going to have to use preserver, might as well use the standard thread. In my book, NCP thread looks flat when finished, and the regular thread has a "snap" to it, is much brighter, and just looks better. (It also comes closer to retaining its original color, although nothing is perfect...)

JMHO...

 

[RedRanger]

When thinning color preserver, use alcohol !!! Cp is water based, and if thinned with water it will not penetrate the tread as well.

 

[Goags]

You can't prevent it...all thread will eventually turn to Maroon! Whooooopppp! Good advice given - I use reg thread, except white NCP, thinning gudebrod 811 w/ denatured alcohol, several coats. I've been using more Madeira polyneon, but haven't had any problems w/ color changing on gudebrod reg. nylon, either. Post some pics of the MAROON. Jerry

 

[Savage Rods]

I'm with Arlon. I coat all mine, NCP or not, with 3 coats of color preserver. I've not had one turn color yet, or fade.

 

[dallashark]

I feel that thinned cp and several coats is the only way to avoid this problem. I think the problem comes when the tension is added to the thread through the wrapping process. When the tension is added, the walls of the thread compress upon themselves making it harder for cp to penetrate. Thread is spun and when it comes off off the spool kinda looks like this OOOOOOOOO, when we add the tension through the wrapping process it compacts oooooooo. This is where we have to be diligent and make sure the cp penetrates the thread completely. Often when doing closed wraps Dark under/light on top) i will cp as i go to ensure that the thread several layers under the finished wrap will maintain their color and not bleed through due to lack of cp. Hope this helps and forgive the crude graphic above.
Best regards,
Jason

 

[slamthis]

there is a way to get thead to stay the same color, but it's a little bit of work. you can mark where the guide feet will be on the rod. then you can paint where the guide feet will lay with white paint. i'm not sure which paint is best, but i hear it works really well. as i've never tried it, i cant say from personal experience how well it actually works. the blank color is what causes the thread to change. color preserver makes for a bit of a weaker bond to the rod as it keeps the epoxy from soaking through to grab and bond the thread and guides to the blank. it's still plenty strong for inshore type rods. color preserver was initially designed for offshore wraps. there is so much epoxy on that type of rod, that it doesn't really matter if it soaks through to the blank. just my 2 cents...

 

[RaiderRed]

I appreciate all the insight from above. There are several new tricks that I plan to use in the coming weeks.

thanks again. RR