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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm undertaking this challenge for the first time this afternoon. I've been reading everything I can about it but was hoping for some tips from the veterans on 2Cool. Thanks.
 

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Genesis 9:2-3 & Deuteronomy 12:15-16
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Don't rewire it.


Actually, making some stand alone lights on PVC and enough length of wire that the lights can be placed in the rod holders and the wire run along inside the boat to the bow and then plugged in to your truck. Then you have a set of "trailer" lights to mount on almost anything you want to tow and they won't get wet at the ramp or mess up on you half the time. Trouthunter has this type of setup if you need more info.
 

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88 Ag
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My suggestion is to buy an complete kit which includes a new wiring harness. LED complete kits at Academy are about $50-60 and the standard type are $30ish. Follow the instructions in the kit which is pretty self explanatory and MAKE SURE the white ground is hooked up and you should have no problems. You can buy a little adapter that lights up when plugged into the vehicle receptor and it lets you know if you wiring harness from the vehicle is good. They are cheap as well - less than $10. Good luck. 99% of the time if they don't work it is a ground problem.
 

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You have my sympathies. The one thing I've always hated about boat ownership was the trailer wiring. For 35 years, I've had to redo it every stinkin' year.
 

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I agree with spotsndots I just replaced my lights with the $30 Academy Lights. I solder and shrinkwrap all my connections. I have used the liquid electrical tape and that will work also. It is not that hard and does not take very long with easy to follow instructions. The sealed lights last alot longer the old "submersible lights". Good luck, Ken
 

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I agree with the soldering idea. I did that about a year ago and have had no problems. I did make one change though. I mounted my lights on top of the guide poles on my trailer. They never touch the water. I bought the round ones at Wal-Mart for $6 each. LOL.
 

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85LoneStar said:
Ditto on the ground.

And be prepared to re-wire in 2 to 3 years no matter how good of a job you did.
I agree.
Dang, some of you guys are pretty pro-fessional about trailer wiring, soldering and all.

I use the right size crimp connectors and paint it/dip it a couple times with liquid tape and it's good to go.
It'll last probably 2-3 years.

I don't care how you do it. If you use the boat often and it's run through the trailer, the connections will oxidize and break somewhere in 2-3 years.
 

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An Over 60 Victim Of Fate
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Boat Trailer Light Solution

If you take two lenghts of PVC pipe that will fit in rod holders mounted on the transom, two PVC T's to fit the pipe, wire and trailer lights you can make some trailer lights that are easy in and easy out that will never fail as neither the wire nor the lights are ever submerged in water, they don't rub on the trailer and they don't vibrate or shake on fender guide poles.

Mount the lights on the PVC T's then just run the wiring from the lights mounted at the rear of the boat across the deck, over the bow and make your connection. You ground from one light to the other between the two pieces of PVC pipe.

When you get to the ramp, simply unplug the lights from your truck, coil up the wire as you move to the back of the boat, pull the lights from the rod holders and lock them in the truck.

Had this setup for years and years and you'll replace the boat before you will the lights.

TH
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, got a later start than I wanted to but I got the wires run down the frame. I didn't want to splice in the dark. One more question. If I want to extend a wire, do I have to use the exact same gauge or can I use a larger gauge?
 

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I replace light and some wire every 1-2 years,,it really depend on how much the trailer will be in the water. LED lights are the only way to go now..They is no bulb to burn out, pop, or break, I understand that they can last for years. So now the wiring is the only issue. I never tried soldering,,but i will now after reading you guys posts..
 

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Solder connections, place a little liquid elec. tape and quickly put heat shrink tubing over that.. When the heat shrink shrinks, the liquid elec. tape will be squashed into the wiring and any problem you have in the future with the wiring, won't be at that connection. ;)

Another thing, place some dielectric grease at ALL of the grouding contact points before tightening down and after you tigthen, spray them with Boeshield/Corrosion-X. Do not cover those with liquid electrical tape, that will only hold the moisture in and cause premature corrosion..
 

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A.K.A. Jacob's dad
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Good old American ingenuity baby. Awesome setup, I think I might have to try that.
Trouthunter said:
If you take two lenghts of PVC pipe that will fit in rod holders mounted on the transom, two PVC T's to fit the pipe, wire and trailer lights you can make some trailer lights that are easy in and easy out that will never fail as neither the wire nor the lights are ever submerged in water, they don't rub on the trailer and they don't vibrate or shake on fender guide poles.

Mount the lights on the PVC T's then just run the wiring from the lights mounted at the rear of the boat across the deck, over the bow and make your connection. You ground from one light to the other between the two pieces of PVC pipe.

When you get to the ramp, simply unplug the lights from your truck, coil up the wire as you move to the back of the boat, pull the lights from the rod holders and lock them in the truck.

Had this setup for years and years and you'll replace the boat before you will the lights.

TH
 

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peelin' drag said:
Good old American ingenuity baby. Awesome setup, I think I might have to try that.
ditto on the good idea, after rewiring for the 2nd time in 3 months .. cuz my german shepard's new diet (anything plastic).. i'm going to do it this way.
 
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