[Ron R.]

Can anyone recommend a good wooden fence installer? I need a 6 foot fence with a rotboard at the bottom. The length is about 50 feet.

My brother-in-law and I installed a good section of fencing last year. If I can get a good price I would rather pay someone to do it.

What is a reasonable price to pay per foot and installed?

 

[DILLIGAF]

What area are you in?

 

[grinderman]

Call Fort Bend fence Company - ask for Randy or Jeff, the owners. They do really good work! I grew up playing baseball with Randy and against him in college. They just intstalled a lot of fencing around a storage unit my dad and I own in East Bernard.

 

[Blackgar]

Fence

Gee you got me all excited, I thought you had someting hot for sale !! LOL

 

[Red3Fish]

Fence cost

I have rental property and have installed it seems like a jillion feet of wooden fences, especially after the hurricanes. The actual materials cost about $6.00 a foot on up, depending on what materials you use, and the going rate used to be about $12.00 a foot using the cheapest material (treated 4 x 4s, 2 x 4s, and treated pine slats). Hope this helps.

Later
R3F

 

[Red3Fish]

Ps

PS after I read that it wasn't clear--the $12/ft included the cheapest material, not in addition to material. Figure about $6/ft labor. Gates extra.

Later
R3F

 

[david]

fence

Had a price from Summit Fence South and Houston fence company to put up approx. 400' of fence. This was for 4"x4" treated posts on 8' centers (3) 2x4 treated runners and a 2X6" rot board on the bottom. The pickets were #2 grade cedar pickets. The price from each company was only a few dollars difference but basically was $14 dollars a foot. I ended up doing it myself, and should finish the job this weekend. My material costs are running close to $7.00 a foot. That includes #2 grade cedar pickets at $2.00 ea versus treated pine which are $1.00 ea. So basically you can cut about $2.00 a foot off by going with treated pine pickets. Shoot me an e-mail if you want and I can give you some pointers. I am now the fence building bomb. [email protected]

 

[Red3Fish]

Item!

If you do it yourself, I prefer 7' on center for the posts. Yes, you will have to cut each 8' runner, but it is nearly impossible to get them EXACTLY 8' apart(even tho 8' ers are a little oversized) so your runners match up end to end and you may have to buy a couple of 10' ers to cut and make up the difference or live with a little space between them. I use the cut ends of the cut 8' ers nailed or tacked on (and later removed) as braces beneath the bottom stringer. Makes for easier nailing when doing it by yourself!

Later
R3F

 

[david]

R3F makes a very good point. I put my posts on 7'10" centers in order to use 8' 2x4 runners. If you lay them out exactly 8' chances are you are going to have to mix in a 10' 2x4. I also used the cut pieces to use as blocks under the 2x4 runners ( but I did not remove them). Makes for a sturdier fence if you toenail the 2x4' on the inside of the 4x4's as opposed to nailing your runners on the outside of your 4x4's. My.02

 

[Argo]

This rot board you are talking about. Where does it go and what is its purpose? I am guessing it runs under the 1x6 fence boards?

 

[Mont]

Tim Ridgeway did a fine job on 700 feet of fencing for me.
281-554-4289
281-728-6496

 

[speckle-catcher]

yep - it's where the dirt touches the fence at the bottom. It's laid horizontally and when it rots it's cheaper to place one board than all the pickets.

 

[david]

Mont,
Exactly. The rot board is the lowest board and is nailed to the outside of the post as opposed to toe nailing it to the inside of the post. Once you have set your 4x4's run your rot board level along the ground nailing it to the outside of your 4x4's. When you get ready to set your 1x6 fence planks you set them on top of the rot board making for easy installation and also making the top of your fence level. Thus, the importance of leveling your rot board. Instead of using a 2x6, I used 5/4 x 6 treated deck board. A little lighter and a little cheaper.

 

[Argo]

If you have 2x4s put ontop of the 4x4 posts how does the rot board butt up under the pickets?? It would be off by an inch or so. Do you place the 2x4s between the 4x4s? I like the way they hold up better on top of the 4x4s.

 

[david]

The 2 x 4 runners are placed between the 4x4's, thus giving you the width of the rot board to set your pickets on. Placing the 2x4's between the 4x4 is what the larger fence builders recommend (summit fence and houston fence)

 

[Argo]

I like it on top, that is just me. I also screw everything, no pun intended. I dont like nails. I have the fence up still that the homebuilder put up 3 years ago but will be replacing the street facing 120' or so when I put in a circle driveway for my boat. I just think you would get a stronger hold by screwing the 2x4 to the front face of the 4x4 rather than in between the posts and angleing the nail or screw.

 

[speckle-catcher]

couple of pics of fence with rot board. the arrow points at the rot board.

 

[Red3Fish]

Screws vs nails

I like 6d galvanized screw shank nails in a nail gun for slats!! Same animal only 8d for 2 x 4s. Goes real fast, and won't pull out. Dont use the regular dry wall screws. Use the green deck screws if you go that way.

 

[speckle-catcher]

skip the green deck screws and get the stainless steel screws with square drive heads.

for nails, I prefer ring shanks - they never come out - and you can get them for a nail gun now.

 

[david]

forget the stainless steel screws. You do not get anymore benfit from stainless than you do from Deck-Mate #7-1-5/8" screws. Deck-mate will not rust and about one half the cost of stainless