2 Cool Fishing Forum banner
1,381 - 1,400 of 2,963 Posts
squirrellman,
I have not tried to pole my Proskiff but I suspect it would not be easy to do. That said it would not cost you much to try it and let us all know how it works. Give it a shot.
I imagine you're right Joe. Seeing as how our boats arent really as small and narrow as a regular poling skiff it may be hard. But I might just fashion together a pole on the cheap and try it out. Thanks.
 
Squirrelman, i have always thought about the push pole. Let us know how it performs. Has anyone install wash down pump to the boat. It could come in handy when cleaning up the mess after all of that bloody fish.
 
Push pole

I did buy a pole and tried it out last year and quickly learned the mechanics involved were not in my fishing arsenal. It's a lot like steering my drift boat in that your kinda working the opposite direction like steering a trailer backwards. You tube... Gotta love that site... Learned the basics of polling and it worked great on the 16 but obviously I have nothing to compare it to. The boat moves effortlesly in calm water but I doubt I'd try out for the Olympics.. Don't laugh. They have curling for gods sakes!

Jonc
 
depth finder

hey all.. got mu bimini top and guide poles on my mako s16cc. Trying to install sounder now. Any advice on running the wire from the helm to the stern? I see where it goes but how do you feed it thru?
 
Having finally had a chance to put some hours on the Mako, we fell in love with it even more than before. We are running a 30 on a hull rated for 60 HP and it is only about 8 MPH slower than the max HP. Acceleration is slow but steady and power trim comes in handy.

It eats river chop for breakfast and is the most stable small boat we have dealt with. We have been running it in creeks so narrow that there is barely enough room for the beam. The only thing we miss is oars for maneuvering while throwing a net. The push pole helps but is awkward compared to oars.

We fitted a bow mount electric motor on the stern in order to keep the bow clear which does okay, but is not as nice as a bow mounted motor.

I suspect that some of the nay sayers try to use this hull in waters it is not designed for. It is not designed for large waves and is out of its element offshore where a self bailing vee hull would be preferable. For lakes, large rivers, and small waters where we fish it is perfect. The two of us carry everything but a kitchen sink in it and still have room to spare.

We had offshore boats in the past which were all but useless in the smaller waters we frequent. They were expensive to operate, very difficult to maneuver, and I spent more time just keeping the boats in good order than fishing. Trim tabs and other expensive toys are not required to manage the boat. Instead of $25 +/- launch fees, we just hit a ramp and are away for free.

I get a little impatient with all the talk of it doesn't have such and such accessory. It is extremely adaptable and can be fitted out to an owners needs inexpensively. It is not a cheap item as some allude to but a purpose designed fishing craft that does not break the bank.
 
Having finally had a chance to put some hours on the Mako, we fell in love with it even more than before. We are running a 30 on a hull rated for 60 HP and it is only about 8 MPH slower than the max HP. Acceleration is slow but steady and power trim comes in handy.

It eats river chop for breakfast and is the most stable small boat we have dealt with. We have been running it in creeks so narrow that there is barely enough room for the beam. The only thing we miss is oars for maneuvering while throwing a net. The push pole helps but is awkward compared to oars.

We fitted a bow mount electric motor on the stern in order to keep the bow clear which does okay, but is not as nice as a bow mounted motor.

I suspect that some of the nay sayers try to use this hull in waters it is not designed for. It is not designed for large waves and is out of its element offshore where a self bailing vee hull would be preferable. For lakes, large rivers, and small waters where we fish it is perfect. The two of us carry everything but a kitchen sink in it and still have room to spare.

We had offshore boats in the past which were all but useless in the smaller waters we frequent. They were expensive to operate, very difficult to maneuver, and I spent more time just keeping the boats in good order than fishing. Trim tabs and other expensive toys are not required to manage the boat. Instead of $25 +/- launch fees, we just hit a ramp and are away for free.

I get a little impatient with all the talk of it doesn't have such and such accessory. It is extremely adaptable and can be fitted out to an owners needs inexpensively. It is not a cheap item as some allude to but a purpose designed fishing craft that does not break the bank.
Well said, frankcr.
 
Thank you, FlatsCatFl.

Two years ago in the spring I started getting the 21 ft rig ready for the season, trailer brakes (again), bilge pump problems, electric system gremlins, stuck tach, complete wash and wax, etc. I came back in the house and announced to my wife that I had had enough of spending more time each year getting it in tip top shape before heading offshore. Each trip used 40 + gal of fuel, launch fees, bait and ice and other expenses.

We gave the rig to a friend and purchased the Tiller Skiff. If we want to go offshore, it is less expensive to hire a boat. We also had a 14 ft boat for the rivers, as that deep vee was nothing but a problem in tight waters. The grandson is getting that rig which was a little small for the larger rivers we want to fish. He is into fresh water bass and the rig is just right for him.

Giving up a little maneuverability with the skiff provided a boat which was as easy to launch as the smaller boat with much better safety in the large rivers. It is adaptable enough for flounder gigging, trolling for trout, casting for shrimp, and providing a good ride when the wind picks up. It actually uses about the same fuel as the 14 footer and only requires minimum maintenance like the smaller boat needed. The 6 gal tank is much friendlier to the wallet than the 65 gal in the larger boat also.

We fitted a depth finder, vertical trolling rod holders, an electric trolling motor, running lights, nice swivel seats, a bimini top, and only miss the oars as stated before.

We went through the bigger and faster years and now just want to take relaxed fishing trips. We put gobs of fish in the box over the years, but find we are just as satisfied with smaller, fewer fish and relaxed days. The Mako provides that at a reasonable cost which is much better for a retirement toy. We can use it several times a week for less expense than a monthly trip or two with the larger rig.

I see many posts complaining that it does not run as shallow or fast as a true flats boat and does not like large waves like a deep vee. If someone wants that sort of thing, there is a large selection available for a little more money. Buy it for the general purpose it was designed for and enjoy the simplicity. It is a nice design for what it is and anyone with experience will know that no craft is fit for all purposes.
 
Thank you, FlatsCatFl.

Two years ago in the spring I started getting the 21 ft rig ready for the season, trailer brakes (again), bilge pump problems, electric system gremlins, stuck tach, complete wash and wax, etc. I came back in the house and announced to my wife that I had had enough of spending more time each year getting it in tip top shape before heading offshore. Each trip used 40 + gal of fuel, launch fees, bait and ice and other expenses.

We gave the rig to a friend and purchased the Tiller Skiff. If we want to go offshore, it is less expensive to hire a boat. We also had a 14 ft boat for the rivers, as that deep vee was nothing but a problem in tight waters. The grandson is getting that rig which was a little small for the larger rivers we want to fish. He is into fresh water bass and the rig is just right for him.

Giving up a little maneuverability with the skiff provided a boat which was as easy to launch as the smaller boat with much better safety in the large rivers. It is adaptable enough for flounder gigging, trolling for trout, casting for shrimp, and providing a good ride when the wind picks up. It actually uses about the same fuel as the 14 footer and only requires minimum maintenance like the smaller boat needed. The 6 gal tank is much friendlier to the wallet than the 65 gal in the larger boat also.

We fitted a depth finder, vertical trolling rod holders, an electric trolling motor, running lights, nice swivel seats, a bimini top, and only miss the oars as stated before.

We went through the bigger and faster years and now just want to take relaxed fishing trips. We put gobs of fish in the box over the years, but find we are just as satisfied with smaller, fewer fish and relaxed days. The Mako provides that at a reasonable cost which is much better for a retirement toy. We can use it several times a week for less expense than a monthly trip or two with the larger rig.

I see many posts complaining that it does not run as shallow or fast as a true flats boat and does not like large waves like a deep vee. If someone wants that sort of thing, there is a large selection available for a little more money. Buy it for the general purpose it was designed for and enjoy the simplicity. It is a nice design for what it is and anyone with experience will know that no craft is fit for all purposes.
Well said frankcr. I love my 17. It is exactly what I was looking for. Comfortable, stable, and economical to operate. I have everything on this boat that I've had on larger and fancier boats.
Just got back from a trip to the Big 'O', but did not take my boat. I wish I could have. Worked out good thought, I caught several keepers, including a bass just shy of 8#.
 
I am wondering, by going to the shallow water, how do you prevent the boat from scraping the sea floor? I guess you can go as slow as you can, but sooner or later, the boat would hit the bottom. By accepting this fact, does it degrade the boat bottom exterior over time? If it does, how do patch up the scratch marks to extend the life of the boat?
 
I am wondering, by going to the shallow water, how do you prevent the boat from scraping the sea floor? I guess you can go as slow as you can, but sooner or later, the boat would hit the bottom. By accepting this fact, does it degrade the boat bottom exterior over time? If it does, how do patch up the scratch marks to extend the life of the boat?
You need to really understand how these boats operate. There is no tunnel, or even a pocket tunnel to introduce water to the lower unit and get the boat up shallow. I've got 125 hours on mine in 9 months, I've pushed this boat week after week in the roughest, and also shallowest conditions the boat can go. I've entertained the idea of a manual jackplate. That should help a bit, as well as raising the motor in the bolts to the transom. The skeg will drag first on this boat.

The last 2 weeks, I pushed the boat absolutely as skinny as it can go. It is right at 8 inches with myself, a fuel load with extra gear, etc. And yes, I measured and purposely stuck the boat in a soft area to see exactly what the measurements were, even though I had a good idea.

If on plane, give yourself 10-12 inches to run in with more than 1 person.

Trout bite has been on. I've had to push this boat the last 3 weeks with extra gas tanks to get the reds.











 
Beautiful fish, Winters. We are still waiting for the fish to turn on over here, but bait is slowly improving. Thanks for making a determination of what the true draft of the hull is also.

To answer the question about running aground, if you need something with less draft, there are boats designed for that. You can definitely do damage to a hull by running too shallow, and the oysters around here can eat up the hull pretty bad if you get careless. A minor amount of damage comes with the territory if you are not careful and can require patching.

This hull runs more shallow than a vee but not as shallow as a true flat bottom. It is a good compromise in that it does not beat your teeth out in a chop however. A couple of weeks back, I went out with a friend in his flat bottom Carolina Skiff and it took two days to get over the beating.

All boats are a compromise, so you need to balance each design with what you plan to use the boat for. They have never designed a hull to go in inches of water and then ride comfortably in 3 ft seas. Mako did a good job with this design, as it goes fairly shallow without slamming into chop too much. It hits our sweet spot very well.
 
^2 great posters above.

I'd like to add that this boat can run in 8 inches on plane, with a lighter load, but don't expect to run across a long flat that can get skinny. This boat doesn't have the power or tunnel to get you back up if off plane.

If you find yourself in shallow water, add full power and trim the motor up very high if you're in a spot where you don't think you can push out of by getting out. If you find yourself in shallow water along a deeper water line, get out and push the boat if you're not fighting the wind. The beam in this boat doesn't displace enough water, so just removing a 200 pound passenger will take this boat from being stuck, to floating away.

Also, don't run any boat in an oyster bed, or rough bottom. I've never done that, simply because I'm very familiar with where I fish. Doesn't mean I haven't stuck this boat, because I have, but I know what bottom is there. I'd post my lower Laguna Madre drifts, but don't want any more potlicking.

I know where the oysters/hard bottoms are in the area I fish. Just remember, you don't have a 2 stroke or a big V6 on the back to blast out. Know where you're running, and if you have water in the hull like my boat, take the pounding rather than sticking the boat.

After a load of Sheapshead and trout in the boat already, my bite went off on a drift last week. I looked up, and 2 dolphins were tossing a 22-25 inch trout like a beach ball in 2 feet of water. I pulled my drift sock in after 5-10 minutes of watching them feed, and cruised around them. (No, I wasn't trying to run over them, but you can see how shallow it was by the mud I'm kicking up at the end of the video)

 
Nice fish winter.

I have a question for all. When it is time to clean the boat, I am wondering how thorough do you guys clean yours after very trip. Do you like clean the deck and the floor only, how about under the deck front and rear? If we are doing that, then I assume we must remove everything under the decks, and that includes battery, gas tank etc. If we don't clean under the deck, then water sprays or cleaning solution may splash onto the battery terminal or sneak under the gas tank. True?
 
You need to really understand how these boats operate. There is no tunnel, or even a pocket tunnel to introduce water to the lower unit and get the boat up shallow. I've got 125 hours on mine in 9 months, I've pushed this boat week after week in the roughest, and also shallowest conditions the boat can go. I've entertained the idea of a manual jackplate. That should help a bit, as well as raising the motor in the bolts to the transom. The skeg will drag first on this boat.

The last 2 weeks, I pushed the boat absolutely as skinny as it can go. It is right at 8 inches with myself, a fuel load with extra gear, etc. And yes, I measured and purposely stuck the boat in a soft area to see exactly what the measurements were, even though I had a good idea.

If on plane, give yourself 10-12 inches to run in with more than 1 person.

Trout bite has been on. I've had to push this boat the last 3 weeks with extra gas tanks to get the reds.










Great posts and fish, winter97gt. Btw, I suck at catching fish compared to you, lol.
 
Thanks guys for the compliments.

Mako, or tracker should really take more time on build quality(wiring, etc) and directly address the water in the hulls. I'm not the only one, as my private messages show with guys not wanting to post publicly.

The hull design is great. If I were to make this boat, I would add about 8 inches of width in the beam, make it an 18 foot boat and offer it with a 90-115hp rating. Also, I know it's a skiff, but a little more dry storage standard. I'd also LOVE to see a baby tunnel on this boat. I think they would have a killer boat with that setup.

As mentioned, you're not going to find a better riding hull that is this small besides a V. I will argue that our 21ft Explorer with a Tunnel V will run shallower than this boat, because I've done it. But it drafts 11 inches so stopping isn't a good idea in shallow water. It gets up just as shallow, but a turn getting water in the tunnel and the V6 out back helps.

This is the boat at 6200rpms in 6 inches of chop.

 
Winters that is some good info that you have on the draft and running depth of the boat. So far I have found those numbers to be about what I have experienced. Do you have any numbers on the holeshot of the boat? I'm still trying to figure out how best to get up out of the hole and on plane. Only have about 10 hours on the boat so still learning all the nuances.
 
1,381 - 1,400 of 2,963 Posts