[Boogie1]

Ok I have a 2001 model magic tilt trailer and one of the running lights and one of the tial ligths burned out. Now I tried briefly to remove the lens so that I could change the bulb but could not get either cover off. Is there a trick to this? On my last boat the lens cover just popped off. So this is frustrating me but I don't want to break the lens covers!!!

 

[Livin2Fish]

Most of the setups now you have to replace the whole thing. If going that route I would go with LED.

 

[Boogie1]

The lights are rivited to the trailer. I'm not saying you are wrong, I just don't understand why magic tilt would rivit the lights to the trailer if you have to change the whole thing out everytime a bulb goes out?

 

[Bluffer]

Dremel tool time.

 

[sqwaby]

Most all clearance lights for boat trailers use a type that the lens cover that is glued on, the whole thing is disposable. Tail light will have screws holding the lens on, or if its a waterproof type the cover snaps on and the bulb is in a sealed assy. inside. You may want to replace the whole tail light if its the waterproof type when you see how much the bulb assy. costs.

 

[paragod]

I rivet my lights on my running lights on my trailers with alum rivets so that I dont have dis metelas to try and cut dwon on the electrolisis as much as I can if they are isert lights u have to replace the whole thing

 

[jjtroutkiller]

Ok I have a 2001 model magic tilt trailer and one of the running lights and one of the tial ligths burned out.

I sure wish I could get 6yrs out of a light.

 

[Whitecrow]

Your lights work??

 

[jjtroutkiller]

Your lights work??

The last time the boat was used they did, they have probably corroded off by now.sad3sm

 

[laidback]

if you look at the bottom of the light housing you will see the bulb and all pulls out of the bottom you have to look closely

 

[Shep]

O.K.... don't panic. My magic tilt trailer lights are a bit tricky. If you look at the light from underneath you will see that they are hollow in the inside. You can stick your finger in it from under them but they are sealed all the other way around. There is a black sleeve that you pull/push to the back of the trailer (inside the light) and the bulb assembly will come straight down. You simply replace the bulb and snap it back in place. It's not difficult but it's tricky if you are used to removing lenses to replace bulbs!! Let me know if you have any other problems.... I can call you and walk you through it if you like.

 

[1971snipe]

O.K.... don't panic. My magic tilt trailer lights are a bit tricky. If you look at the light from underneath you will see that they are hollow in the inside. You can stick your finger in it from under them but they are sealed all the other way around. There is a black sleeve that you pull/push to the back of the trailer (inside the light) and the bulb assembly will come straight down. You simply replace the bulb and snap it back in place. It's not difficult but it's tricky if you are used to removing lenses to replace bulbs!! Let me know if you have any other problems.... I can call you and walk you through it if you like.

I know this is a zombie thread, but is pertinent to me. The LED lights on my (9 month old) Magic Tilt trailer are out, except for the driver's-side blinker and brake light. I can't see how to replace them, without just cutting the wires and installing new lights. Anyone know if the "factory" lights ("Jamma") disassemble somehow? (Magic Tilt website isn't much help, btw.)

 

[1971snipe]

Well forget about my post, just in case anyone is interested. It wasn't the trailer, it was my truck. A new fuse fixed the blinker and brake on the passenger side. But still no tail lights ... no power to the tail light wire on the pigtail, although the truck tail lights work. So, we spliced into the license plate wire and now have working tail lights on the trailer. Don't have any idea why no power to the pigtail's tail light wire.

 

[clu35]

Did for motor company wit the ltrailer light plug? If so that's your problem them damm Yankees can't make anything that last.

 

[JimD]

Get a 2 dollar 12 volt tester and start where it is hot and work back.

It took 3 years and a lot of work before I just pulled an home run with new kit up to the top of my roller bars then brought the wires back down from there to the trailer and marker lights. Silicon-ed everything and coated the connectors where I had to redo the grounds which was causing a lot of the problems. Like Paragod said you get a lot corrosion where the wires are grounded back to the trailer even if the connections are sealed.

Go back and look where the pigtail on the truck was clipped to the trucks hot wire. Could be loose or corroded poor connection then come back to the female part of the pig tail and see if the wire is hot.