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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the live well on our boat is broke. it quit pumping water completely. when we flip on the switch i can hear a slight hummmmm come from the pump that is mounted under the floor, but no water in coming in.

not sure if the pump is out or the hose is clogged. what are the most common problems with live wells on boats now days.....pumps, lines, switches???

any help is appreciated!!!
 

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start by taking the pump out of it's housing and check for blockage in the volutes. turn the pump on see if the impeller spins. clean the filter, then work your way up the fill line checking for blockage.
 

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i would make sure to find the problem before turning it on and end up filling the boat up with water.
 

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New pump

I just fixed my buddies livewell pump a few weeks ago and it did the same thing. His pump was the combo washdown/livewell. Those things go out all the time especially if its down in a well and gets wet from the bilge.

It was a pain in the A** to get too as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
speckle-catcher said:
start by taking the pump out of it's housing and check for blockage in the volutes. turn the pump on see if the impeller spins. clean the filter, then work your way up the fill line checking for blockage.
do they usually twist off? the pump is about the size of a grapefruit. i don't remember seeing any screws to take out or anythink like that.

also, just incase i break something while trying this, how much does a pump usually cost??
 

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usually? I don't know - but most of the ones I've seen have a base that screws down, then the pump itself snaps into that and locks in place with two tabs.
 

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Ok...back to the top with this one...Our Live Well Pump ain't working. We did our troubleshooting and decided that the pump needs replacing.

My question is....when you have to splice the wires to put in the new one....how do you seal the splice from potential water, humidity, etc?

Thanks.

ps. Boat maintenance sux, in tight spaces!
 

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BG,


When u buy the new pump buy some crimps that have shrink wrap tubes on them. Just heat up the tubes with a lighter and ur done.
 

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Thanks...I'm familiar with shrink wrap...was just wondering if there is any newer technology that is more waterproof. Our livewell pump and wiring is down near the bilge. Just trying to prevent a short, just in case.
 

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I use the white marine sealer as well as shrink wrap just for extra measures. I have also noticed that it takes a while to get the water to pump through if you get an airpocket in the pump. Usually if it takes too long just run some water into the outlet hose. I pour a 5 gallon bucket into the livewell and let water drain down into the filler tube. That fixes the humming-nonwater-pumping thing.
 

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Glub-Glub-Glub
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splicing wires

Works for me!
When splicing wires for marine use I do it the following way.
1. Solder the connection (be sure you slipped the shrink on first)
2. coat the solder joint with silicone
3. while silicone is still damp, pull shrink over solder joint and shrink till very tight.
A heat shrink gun is necessary as hair dryers do not get hot enough for shrink to work properly. If you have a boat, you need to own a heat shrink gun for any electrical work.
I recently had some re-wiring to do on my boat and took the old solder joints apart to check the integerity of the joint and found them to all be just like new.
 

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USCG says you're not supposed to solder marine connections because the joint is rigid and brittle and likely to fail from the jolting and vibration on a boat. You should just use mechanical crimp on connections with the adhesive lined shrink wrap for anything that's going to be on a boat.

If your boat were to go down because of a bilge pump failure or something like that and the insurance company found that you had soldered connections for the bilg pump wiring, they would most likely not pay your claim since it isn't up to USCG standards. I don't mean to sound like an alarmist but you really should redo those connections on anything important, like bilge pumps, just in case...
 

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Bg, I am sure you are correct, but..

Bg, I am sure you are correct, but....for small bay boats, I am with the "old crazy fisherman". I do my trailer lights and other connections with solder, liquid tape and shrink sleeves, and never had a prob. That just goes to show you, us old folks are hard to change. LOL

Later
R3F
 

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There is a liquid "tape" for sealing electrical connections...I've had really good luck
with it...If you are using heat shrink tubes I'd put a layer or two on before the shrink
tubing and after another couple layers...if you don't have the heat shrink tubes I'd
put about 4 coats on, allow to dry between coats...
Jackie
 

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5200 works great as a coating below the heat shrink tube. Be aware that if you are using one of those "crack" lighters to heat the shrink tube, liquid electrical tape will catch fire as it comes out the end of the heat shrink. Nothing major (not an explosion or anything) but it can be alarming none the less.
 

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Back to the top again! Dang it! OK, got the splicing thing covered. Thanks everyone.

The new pump ain't pumping! We had a Attwood 500, and replaced it with a 750. It was mounted vertical as the intake is on the bottom of the boat. So, we put the new one in the same way. The flow hose to the livewells comes off the side on the top---just like the old one.

We hooked it up, it runs but no water! Re-read the directions and it said that the pump should be laying on it's side with the flow (out) hose coming off the top. If that's true, how come the factory installed the old one improperly?!

Doesn't mention anything about needing to prime it, so what gives? We left it on almost a minute, but didn't want to burn it up right off the bat, as it was a bugger to get in there!

Any advice?

Thanks,
Pam
 

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When it is installed right the water can come into the feeder tube. I mounted mine with a slight upward angle out the transom so water could easily come in it without any air getting in. It still has an air bubble now and then but the way you have it seems it would have an air pocket every time. Mount it out the back like it is supposed to be and plug the whole in the boat.
 

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The best way to terminate or splice wet areas is with sealed terminals. they cost a bit more but include a sealant inside the wire barrel that seals the termination when crimped. No heat or mess.
The key to any electrical termination is using the correct tool and properly prepping the wire.
The adhesive heat shrink is a decent patch over standard terminals but is an extra part.
 
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