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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the latest rod, fresh off the dryer. This one is an 8 foot Batson RCLB80M blank, Batson SU boat guides paired with a nice Avet reel. This is a yak rod and will be used for targeting bull reds and shark, BTB (fyi, this customer is on a team for kayak wars '08 and '07). Gene, I sure hope you like it ! You told me to do it somewhat subtle, so I did my best. Simple spiral wrapped guides and 7 coats of threadmaster light. Not difficult wraps but it spun on the dryer for many an hour to get the finish just right. Hope you guys like it.

Jeff Shields
Shieldski Customs

Grip assembly and reel. Nu-Skin Rod Armor on butt and fore-grip.


Gene's schweeeet new Avet.


Gudebrod metallic royal blue under wrap and water slide decal. Black and silver inlay.


Very simple guide wrap with Batson SU guides with blue rings.


Simple spiral wrap.
 

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Beautiful work, Jeff! I counted 8 coats of TM lite. LOL! I hear you on the long spin times...about 1 coat/night w/ the lite. Finish is flawless! Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's funny Jerry... but you obviously know how it is... put it on and then WAIT..... not a bad thing, just the nature of the beast, but I don't know if I would put any other finish over black thread ever again. Yes more work, for sure, but i feel it's worth it.
 

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Hi Jeff,

I heard of a builder who used 30 coats of Perma Gloss on rods at the request of the customer.

I am not familiar with the ThreadMaster products. You say you used the LIGHT. It looks flawless and beautiful. Do they make a REGULAR? If so why would you not use that? Thank you for educating me.

Neil
 

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Jeff, Jerry have either of you tried Diamondite. I have a kit of it and have been afraid to switch from threadmaster. People that have used it say you can get by with 1 hour between coats. I'm curious myself and don't want to be the guinea pig. BTW the rod looks great.
 

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Jeff, Would like to see a tutorial from you on photographing rods! Have a Fuji FinePix S5100, & a homemade lite box but my photos are pretty shabby compared to yours.
 

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I spend more time fishing, than catching
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I don't know anything about using a custom rod or what it takes to make one, but that sure is pretty!

You want me to PM you my address you can ship it directly to me??? lol!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Neal, wow, thirty coats.... and I thought I was patient... lol. Yes, I use Lite formula, even though they make a regular or "high" build. Being a lite formula, it releases bubbles much better and flows better, also the pot life is 2 to 3 times as long. It takes longer, but I no longer get those minute bubbles trapped in my finish that I was with the regular build. Yes, it was probably operator error, putting my coats on too thick, but this is what works for me and I'm willing to put in the extra coats to have my work coming out more to my liking.

Mark, no, I haven't had the guts to move away to Daimondite now that I found TM Lite. I have heard the same thing about being able to re-coat in an hour. That would be nice. But I fear change.... LOL.

RedRanger, I can't take any credit for my pics. We have a photo studio at my office so I have all the fancy lights and stuff at my disposal. I asked the guy that takes my pics for me to give me a run-down on what he uses and here's what he said:

"Canon Digital Rebel XT. The lens is a Canon 100mm macro. The lighting setup is a simple 4-point setup, and the background is white "seamless" paper (available at your local high-end camera shop)."
 

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Very nice rod.I hope to get to that level someday.
Not to get too far off the subject,but can someone explain the difference in the "light" and regular? I'm am still using flex-coat right now.I bought some of the light build,but when the guy that got me started building rods came by he tossed it in the trash and told me not to mess with it,just stick to the high-build.
I'm getting better with my threadwork,but if I can make things look even better,with different uses of epoxy I'm all for it.Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey Krash,

The Lite build just goes on "lighter", requiring more coats. But it stays liquid longer (longer pot life) and also seems more viscous (flows better), and also is thinner, allowing tiny bubbles that can sometimes get trapped in a High build to be able to more easily escape. There are many out there who have never touched a lite build, and don't need to, as they have figured out how best to work the high build. Personally, I always had some issues with bubbles and not having enough working time with High, so once I switched to Lite, all of those issues went away. It is purely personal preference. But if you aren't happy with the way your epoxy work is turning out, I say try another formulation and/or brand. Once you find one that works for you, stick with it.
 

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Thanks Shieldski,I'm gonna give it a try.Bubbles have been a small problem,but the biggest problem I've had is on the last few guides close to the tip.They all seem to get a "glob" instead of the smooth coat like the larger ones get.
Thanks again.
 

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Which end of the rod do you start applying your finish at with the guides? If you start at the tip, before the finish starts thickening, it should leave the smaller diameter guides with the correct amount of finish on them more easily than doing it the other way (starting at the guide closest to the reel and working towards the tip-top).

A regular build finish like the original Threadmaster shouldn't be the culprit in getting footballs on guides, really. It's plenty thin and viscous enough to get good guide wrap finishes on in my experience with it.
 

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Hi,

After I flame the wraps and just before I take the rod to the drying box, I wipe the brush off, spin the rod and just touch the tip of the brush to any wraps that look like they a bit to much finish applied. This levels ouit the finish.
 

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Krash, If you're having trouble with tiny bubbles in your finish, try pouring it out on a flat piece of foil after it's completely mixed in the cup. This helps release many of them regardless if it's lite or high build. Putter was probably on to something when he asked which end you started on. (butt or tip).Starting at the tiptop while the finish is thinnest is a good tip. If your mixed finish is beginning to "set up" before you've used it all, then toss it and mix a new batch. Flaming can help to some degree but it won't liquify finish that has 'set" too much. The Lite build finishes seem to have a longer pot life (working time) with Threadmaster probably being the longest. Like Jeff says, if you're not happy with the way your finish is working, try different methods,brands,etc. When you find a combination that works, stick with it til something better comes along. IMO it's hard to go wrong with Threadmaster or flex coat(high or lite). Soon Threadmaster will have their own color preserver for their finishes. Early reports say it's good stuff too.
 

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Electri finish mixer

Good morning.

I have been using an electronic finish mixer for almost 2 years. Now you can purchase one sold by Pac Bay.

It works great! What I and others have found is that after rotating for 4 minutes and pouring into a 4" aluminum plate (sold in restaurant supply stores) is that the Flex Coat set up (pot life) time is much longer. I guess when we mix by hand we heat up the mix too much. It also contains the finish in a 3" area. Any bubbles, I just blow down on the mix.

I also find I get a complete mix.

Worth a try.

Capt Neil
 
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