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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just installed a 10" CMC high speed jackplate this saturday on my 22' Blazer Bay and when I ran it at the lake today I notice that when the jackplate is all the way down or partly all the way down and the boat it moving at slower speeds (5 to 15mph) a bunch of water gets pushed up through the jackplate and kind of engulfs the the lower section of the top part of the motor. Once it gets up and going at a good speed it doesn't do it.

Is this normal? I'm afraid that the engine cowling is not totally water tight and that saltwater will find its way in there and do some damage.

If this is not normal what can fix it? I was thinking if they make some sort of plate that attaches to the jackplate on the bottom that would partially block some of that water coming up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok I did a little more research and it seems that some people stuff basketballs in between the jackplate to stop the water from boiling up but I also see that T&H Marine makes the HotShot hole shot plate for their units.

http://www.thmarine.com/product.cfm?PRID=167

I don't know if it will fit a CMC jackplate, but it looks easy to make on my own. I have access to a brake to make nice metal bends, just have to figure out a wait to attach it to the jackplate. I would rather not have to drill holes in my jackplate and don't even think I have the equipment to do so.

Anybody have any suggestions for mounting it to the CMC plate or does the inflated basketball method work well? Or any other suggestions?
 

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I have the same 10" cmc jp on my bay boat. I cut a piece of aluminum plate and drilled 4 holes into it on the edges and drilled/tapped holes on the bottom of the plate.

Never did have it catching water from speeding up/low speeds... just got aggravated with the water coming into the splashwell on the back of the boat through the plate.
 

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JP-BB 2220 & Performance

I want to put the same unit on my 2220 fisherman. After putting it on and trying did you see a big performance difference? I am told that with this hull you cant really run the engine all the way up and still pick up water, unless your idling.

Dont really know whether to jump off and do it yet,, hoping you could give some good performance info.

Mounting a plate on the bottom is the best way to prevent the water. I had one on another boat and the ball thing works,,,,sorta. The plate is the easy way to go!

Thx
 

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Huntr 52
If you want to add a jackplate I would go with a 6" on this boat, that's what we have. Now if your into just speed alone then a 10" will do the trick, a 10" will let you run faster but trying to take off shallow the boat will really squat in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The boat seems to run about the same speed as it did before with no jackplate. I did not get to test it a whole lot because the water got pretty rough but I'd say it ran about the same as before. I called the manufacturer and s/w the VP and he said they reccommend the 10" for these boats so that is what I went with. At idle and puttering around I can easily raise the motor all the way up. At WOT, I had it about halfway up or so and it had same water pressure as all the way down, didn't want to risk raising it any further but i will play with it more next time i run it. I think the holeshot will improve dramatically once I install the bottom plate though, it catches a lot of water without it (this might affect the top speed also?).

As far as the take off from shallow, I think the difference is negligible, just putter out to a little bit deeper water and then take off. This isn't a super shallow water boat so when i need an extra 2" of water to take off, I could care less. I like how the 10" really gets the motor out further off the boat, reduces tension and extreme angles of the hoses/wires/etc. A lot less "clutter" on the back deck now.

I have never tapped holes for screws, can this be done easily by myself while it is still attached to the boat?
 

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I did mine exactly that way. Got the plate cut to the actual size I wanted. Measured the thickness of the plate which i'm not sure if it's 3/8 or not... I think I used a 10-32 allen head bolt with a ss washer. Drilled the flat plate first, put it on the jp, marked the holes on the jp.... drilled/tapped the jp and installed with loctite. Still on there!! Would take pictures but I'm offshore right now working.
 

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SAGS

With this boat I am not into shallow water hole shot, just want to get out of the shallows without having to repaint the lower unit everytime I get home. I have heard that the 6" works fine, but like OOTSABryan said, the mfg and the dealers all say a 10" is the one to use on the 2220.

But, on the other hand I have also been told that this boat doesnt perform well when the motor is jack'd up while running and some reports that the prop starts to cavitate. I think that is probably a product of the cup of the prop being used and not all contributable to the jp.

I am going to do a little more research on the 10" before I decide as either one is an expensive add on and I would rather not be terribly disappointed when I get thru.

Wouldnt it be easier to add the cover plate before the jp is mounted so you dont have to work up side down?
 
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