[Bug_Power]

I've just bought a Carolina SKiff J16 from another member here on the boards. I'm looking to get it to run shallow. It's got a 35 Evinrude on it now, and while when I kick it up I can float in about 4" of water with me, my sister, a cooler, a livewell full and with 6 gallons of gas. However it's not too shallow when the motors running. I'm looking for some advice on how to get it to run in about 12" or so of water. I don't have a jackplate now, and thought about buying a manual one or having the guys at Val's fab me one up. I'm gunna get a pole to get back into some of the back bays in Rockport, but poling that far, and into the wind can be a PITA.

Oh I picked up a new prop with some cup in it, but I still don't think it's gunna get me any shallower. Do some of you guys unlatch your motor when running through some shallow areas so I can kick up if you get too skinny?

 

[Freshwaterman]

yes, make sure your motor is on kicker setting, trust me you dont want to hit a sand bar with it locked in the down postion.

my buddies has a J16 with a 25hp, and his caviation plate is about 1inch above the bottom of his hull, he seems to run and get up in bout a foot or less.

maybe you just have to adjust your motor hieght. .

 

[Bug_Power]

how do I adjust the motor height?

 

[KarateCowboy]

Add the jack plate.
KC

 

[Bug_Power]

ok just measured my motor and it's 15" below the bottom of the boat which sits 4" in the water. That would make it run right at about 20" of water. I was trying to get back to deadmans hole last weekend following the pvc sticks by the old duck blinds. I shot down the PVC poles then saw them run out and shut her down when I started feeling it drag. I pulled the motor up drifted out a bit then "polished" the prop to get it back in about 2' of water. I'd like to be able to run about 1' or so instead of almost 2'. I'm considering a jackplate, but don't want to spend an arm and a leg for a $2200 boat. It's not a tunnel so I'm not trying to run in 6" of water, but I REALLY thought it would run shallower then it did. when we got back out I drifed the island right by the duck blinds and it couldn't have been more then 6" deep. I floated through there fine with probably 500lbs of weight on the boat.

 

[Bug_Power]

ohh and I've got some 1/4 aluminum plate that I could make something like this.

would this help anything?

 

[Bug_Power]

something like this jackplate work? IS there a cheaper one for smaller outboards?

 

[Bug_Power]

anyone tried this?
http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.SceneSeven?hvarTextId=8782&hvarSourceName=images2/13000/13027.jpg&hvarType=0&hvarLinkEnabled=false

 

[bslittle79]

Bug,

If you have the money try a cmc trim unit. I'm guessing your 35 doesn't have tilt and trim. The CMC (PT-35??)) trim unit will act as a manual jack plate(should raise your motor up 4-6" pending on how you set it up), plus with the trim your can get more skeg out of the water while running trimmed out. With 16 foot of boat and running in shallow water you should be able to get trimmed up pretty high before loosing prop grip/water pressure and getting that bow hop.

Just something to think about.

 

[Graydog328]

Get a manual Jackplate. There not to expensive. I had a Carolina skiff for my first boat and you can set the Jack plate where the caviation plate is level with water. It will run and get up no problem in 10'

 

[tommy261]

manual jackplate

I believe graydog328 has the answer. I am running a 16ft seaark that drafts 6" of water, and I have a manual jackplate with a 6" set back on it. My anti cavitation plate is about 2-1/2 inches above the bottom of the boat(my boat is a tunnel hull though) If u do put a manual jackplate(guys correct me if I am wrong) you need to pay attention to the water pressure. I run my boat duck hunting in very shallow water 4-6" when wide open, so I put a water pressure gauge on my boat. These other guys may know but u may not need a pressure gauge on a conventional hull, I just do not think u will get the jackplate up that high to worry about it before u start cavitating; I could be wrong though. I really do think the manual jackplate will help out a lot. I got mine new for 150.00. they may be cheaper than that. Mine was purchased at a dealership so you know how that goes.

 

[Bug_Power]

Where did you get yours from? What dealerhship and what kind is it?

Also does anyone know if the J16 is a self bailing hull? I'm too scared to take the plugs out and drive around! Wondering about some livewell choices, but don't want to drill through the hull.

 

[tommy261]

Manual jackplate

I bought mine at travis boating center,but northshore marine carries them; not sure of there pricing though. I will find out for u.

 

[Harper]

Manual Jack Plate

Since you engine is not large, you can get a Manual Jackplate from Bob's for around $110. It is called mini jack plate Product. JPM - MMJ available at http://www.bobsmachine.comJack Plate: Manual
JPM - MMJ

Manual Jack Plate: Mini Manual - Ultra Light weight only 12 lbs
ltra Lightweiht - Only 12 LBS

Should work for your application. I have just put one on a small tunnel hull, waiting to try it out.

 

[Skiff]

web site

Check out the Carolina Skiff Owners site on MSN. Lots of ideas and pictures for you to check out. The manual jackplate is probably your least expensive route and you can have some control over the engine height for deeper water. I had the tilt trim on my 1765 and it didn't improve the shallow water performance.