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In the instruction manual they say that you should not run any solid state equipment witout a power line conditioner. since most everything except a light these days is solid state, my question, err questions are. 1. Do I really need one. 2. if I do need one, what kind and where do you find one and what is a reasonable cost.

I am assuming it is some kind of surge protector but beyond that I have no idea. Google produced many results but not sure what I need to run a fridge, TV, and lights in case this Ike thing turns ugly.
 

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Remember, although I am not a big advocate of extended warranties on appliances and other items, most all cover power surges so it is an option to think about when purchasing new products that may be powered by a generator. I did a bad hookup one time with a generator and blew some power surge protectors out completely and made lots of smoke and surge protector had to be replaced, it did protect a few expensive items such as a 73" HD television and computers. Can't say about appliances such as refrigs or freezers.
 

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Since you didn't specify any of the electrical data for your generator, I will give you a generic answer. Small generators normally use a dervied neutral. Utility power neutrals are firmly grounded, generator neutrals float. Here is what can happen with a floating neutral on a 240 volt generator. There are two generator windings, connected at one end. Imagine a "V" If you take a voltage reading from across the \ you will get 120 volts. Likewise if you take a reading across the / you will get 120 volts. The bottom is the neutral. If you take a reading across the top you will get 240 volts. Now lets put a load across each of the legs. On one leg we will put a few loads that draws 5-10 amps total (including your electronic equipment), on the other we will put your refrigerator drawing 15 amps. The compressor on your refer starts and as motors always do, it draws up to 6 times the amps that it takes to run it once it gets moving. Think about pushing a car, once you get it rolling, its not too hard, but that initial push is tough. The generator winding is trying to supply current to start the motor load on one leg, and one of two things happens. Either the generator slows down and the frequency drops, or the voltage increases on one leg while dropping on the other. If voltage drops, current increases and current is what does the work, and it is also what makes heat, a by product of electrical power. If the frequency drops, your precious big screen power supply will react by introducing more current into the electronics. If the voltage shifts from one phase to the other, the power supply will react by introducing more current into the electronics. (Seeing a pattern here?) More current, more heat. A power surge strip won't protect you. It protects against voltage spikes by arresting peaks and shunting them to ground. Your system isn't grounded. You need a voltage conditioner, which is an autotransformer that keeps voltage constant.

The home depot/black and decker/generac portable gensets are great for running the lights or the reefer if large enough to carry the load, but they aren't very well regulated. The power is there, but its not very clean. Hope that was clearly defined...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Drainplug said:
Since you didn't specify any of the electrical data for your generator, I will give you a generic answer. Small generators normally use a dervied neutral. Utility power neutrals are firmly grounded, generator neutrals float. Here is what can happen with a floating neutral on a 240 volt generator. There are two generator windings, connected at one end. Imagine a "V" If you take a voltage reading from across the \ you will get 120 volts. Likewise if you take a reading across the / you will get 120 volts. The bottom is the neutral. If you take a reading across the top you will get 240 volts. Now lets put a load across each of the legs. On one leg we will put a few loads that draws 5-10 amps total (including your electronic equipment), on the other we will put your refrigerator drawing 15 amps. The compressor on your refer starts and as motors always do, it draws up to 6 times the amps that it takes to run it once it gets moving. Think about pushing a car, once you get it rolling, its not too hard, but that initial push is tough. The generator winding is trying to supply current to start the motor load on one leg, and one of two things happens. Either the generator slows down and the frequency drops, or the voltage increases on one leg while dropping on the other. If voltage drops, current increases and current is what does the work, and it is also what makes heat, a by product of electrical power. If the frequency drops, your precious big screen power supply will react by introducing more current into the electronics. If the voltage shifts from one phase to the other, the power supply will react by introducing more current into the electronics. (Seeing a pattern here?) More current, more heat. A power surge strip won't protect you. It protects against voltage spikes by arresting peaks and shunting them to ground. Your system isn't grounded. You need a voltage conditioner, which is an autotransformer that keeps voltage constant.

The home depot/black and decker/generac portable gensets are great for running the lights or the reefer if large enough to carry the load, but they aren't very well regulated. The power is there, but its not very clean. Hope that was clearly defined...
Very well explained, thanks. BUT would do I need for a 5500 watt powermate gen for regular emergency work? Many options that I am not sure of.
 

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IMO I'll put it this way. When all the power crews are out for days and one has no lights; you'd be happy with a flashlite. Just the comfort of a fan blowing on ya' at night would probably keep off the skeeters, a light outside might keep away the looters(I have a .38 for that as backup) a 110 volt for a few bucks might even be better. Icebox to keep some items refrigerated for eating. I'd rather take the chance of screwing up some electronics than wait for the Government to come to the rescue or feed me.
 

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a power generator without a power conditioner is useless for computer and mp3 player or anything that uses a lot of electronics like radar, plasma tv . things that use few electronic will be ok but simple refrigerator without the tv or internet will work . you need pure clean electricity to operate a computer ,the power you have is not pure . if it is working , it should be ok but don't change the setup too much . keep it simple .
 

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If you gotta have the computer, buy a UPS, (uninteruptable power supply). Be sure it is a pure sinewave, not a modified sinewave. That is what I used to power my computer for years during power outages. A home generator does not have good power control.
 

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I have a 12KW Onan generator in my motor home and it powers everything. There is no line conditioner and my motor home is an electronic marvel. However, my genset is big enough to power everything without sags and surges. I also have a small 2KW Honda genset that will power small stuff and it also is pretty clean. I use it remotely to power tv sets etc. If you are going to use a genset for emergency power, you first have to decide what you are going to power, that is, add up the total power consumption of all the items and buy a genset large enough to handle the load. A 5500 watt genset will not power very many household appliances. Maybe a refer, tv, and a few lights. Certainly not a central a/c unit, hot water heaters or anything that uses a heating element. My home genset is made for emergency power and is also very clean. Translate clean power to $$. However, when the lights go out, it sure is comforting to have those few lights and a cold refrigerator and freezer. Even the very cheap gensets will provide power for lights.
 

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I have a Honda EU1000 and during a recent storm we used it for over 12 hours to provide power to my laptop, a fan, and our big-screen TV all at the same time. I used a good UPS and plugged everything into that. At the deer lease I use a Sears 5500 W genset and run lights, SAT TV, Microwave, coffee-maker and my laptop all at the same time with no UPS or other regulator. Not saying that is good but it works fine.
 

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I used an older Wacker 5600 Gen in the storm for 8 days.

I powered: Fridge, 4 Lamps, 42" LG TV, DVD, 6500 BTU Window Unit, on 110V and my water well on 240v.

It performed flawless and I have no problem as of yet.

I did have to unplug everything to run the coffee maker. Coffe makers use some serious juice...
 

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Higher end gensets, like Honda (Honda branded, not just honda powered) produce fairly clean power if you don't run them near capacity.

In addition to lights, fans, fridges (2) and a freezer, I powered a small CRT type TV directly off the genset. For our "movie nights", I powered a small HD LCD and DVD player off of an inverter. During genset runs, I'd recharge the inverter.

I WOULD not run an expensive TV, computer, stereo or other sensitve electronics from an unconditioned generator (like a Max or Coleman or the like).
 

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... I ran my Pep Boys el cheapo chinese clone gen: 3500 watt to power the frig, fan , projection TV, Suround sound amp, DVD player, lap top, and one light. I used a in line surge supressor, and had my gennie grounded to the house. If the compressor came on the fan(s) slowed down but everything else functioned just fine. Most digital electronics, have their own built in line conditoners (isolation transformer?), and if the power is no good they, they are designed not to work. The lap top has a transformer in its ac to dc power supply. My big kitchen microwave would not work at all, not even show its time LEDs. It is built to not accept anything but good full voltage, to prevent damage.
 
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