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Heritage, not Hate
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay..I have a 2007 Government Motors Trailblazer. I got up this morning to go get it inspected and what do you know....the check engine light came on (along with the tire pressure monitor). I figured it was cold out and let it warm up. Engine light still on. So, I go to a friend's house (TPMS light goes off on the way) and we run the code and re-set the computer (dummy me...didn't write down the code).

I wait an hour or so and go to the inspection station.....FAILED. He asked me if I had disconnected my battery and I told him no. He asked me if I had jump started another vehicle and I said yes (which I did about a week ago). The jumper cables were still laying on the seat.

Since I am somewhat vehicle stupid...can I disconnect the battery cables or will driving it around for a while re-set it? The guy at the Shell station said to drive it for about 40 miles and come back.

Back in May, the check engine light came on and I did the same thing...reset it. Hasn't come on until today.

Guess you can't beat a computer. Any opinions are welcome. The guy did tell me where I could go on Nasa Rd. 1 and pay a guy a Franklin and all would be good, but I can't bring myself to do that. I thought it was kind of odd for him to tell me how to cheat the system.
 

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mine came on last night, too, and my inspection is due at the end of the month. what great timing, huh?

it's probably pollution control stuff, and whether the "check engine" light is on or not, the vehicle won't pass. it sucks. depending on what the problem is (o2 sensors, egr valve, etc.), it can cost anywhere from $100-$400 to fix.

my sierra is running fine, too, but i think i've noticed a very slight bit of hesitation on acceleration, lately.
 

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You have to drive it around at temp for around 60 to 100 miles for the computer to reset everything. I had to do that to my sons car after replacing some parts.
 

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driving 60 miles or starting the vehicle about 5 times would cause the system to throw the check light......it will not pass inspection until you reach the 60 miles because the system has to have different sections come on during that time...you are allowed so many to not come on before you fail a inspection...on a old sheet you will see "Ready, Pass or Fail"

using a device to check/clear your code..or disconnecting the battery will not solve the problem

best to just drive it over 60 miles, and be sure...if the light comes back on, write it down and post it here for us
 

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At the gym
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You have to drive it around at temp for around 60 to 100 miles for the computer to reset everything. I had to do that to my sons car after replacing some parts.
Actually only about 20 will work after you clear the codes.

I've actually passed one year after driving it for 5 miles after I cleared the code.

Only thing is is that if you have a true code fault, the light may or may not come back on before or during your inspection.
 

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Actually only about 20 will work after you clear the codes.

I've actually passed one year after driving it for 5 miles after I cleared the code.

Only thing is is that if you have a true code fault, the light may or may not come back on before or during your inspection.
I had fixed the problem that was turning on the light. I had to replace a valve back by the gas tank. Took all of 5 minutes to fix it. And a 10 mm wrench. It took almost 60 miles before the light went off after the fix.
 

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Boatright custom flats
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Not sure where you are located, but I have a scanner that will read the code for you. I'm in Danbury. It will clear it as well, but whatever is causing the light to come on will need to be fixed.
 

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The code readers that you can get at the auto parts stores or Wal-Mart don't read or clear all the codes. You need a scanner like a mechanic has to clear everything and get everything back in the ready mode. The PCMs can also have codes in them that will be a pending check engine light but that have not tripped the light yet. I agree with William, you should take it to the dealer if it's still under warranty and let them get the issue corrected. It threw a code for a reason.
 

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Screw it. Lets ride!
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Its probably throwing a code due to the emmisions systems sensing a bad gas cap. Ive heard of this from alot of people. Apparently if your gas cap leaks vapors, the computer senses it, then throws a code. Either replace the gas cap, or smear some silicone based grease on the rubber seal, disconnect the battery, or use a computer to clear the code, drive it around for 50 or so miles, and if the light doesnt come back on, your golden.

The inspector should have given you the reason why it failed. From what I understand, most of the time its a gas cap issue. They will try to ream you for a new one, so just go to Autozone or Oriely and get one beforehand.
 

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Boatright custom flats
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Its probably throwing a code due to the emmisions systems sensing a bad gas cap. Ive heard of this from alot of people. Apparently if your gas cap leaks vapors, the computer senses it, then throws a code. Either replace the gas cap, or smear some silicone based grease on the rubber seal, disconnect the battery, or use a computer to clear the code, drive it around for 50 or so miles, and if the light doesnt come back on, your golden.

The inspector should have given you the reason why it failed. From what I understand, most of the time its a gas cap issue. They will try to ream you for a new one, so just go to Autozone or Oriely and get one beforehand.
I agree with Brassnadz. Could very well be the gas cap. Had that problem on my 04 Sierra, and more recently my 05 Suburban. If you do find it is your gas cap, please don't buy the junk from Autozone or the like. Go to the dealer, spend the $20 bucks or whatever on an oem cap. Trust me.

By the way, the code P0440 or P0455 will be the gas cap more than likely.
 

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Screw it. Lets ride!
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Jeff, I think your right about the code. I had it too, and it sounds familiar, but I couldnt remember the exact code. Probably good advice on the cap too, as the one I got at AZ was made in China, and although it passed, it remains to be seen if it will last till the next inspection.
 

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Cheat the system cause the system is cheating you! Emissions test are a joke no two test stations are a like one place it passes another place two blocks away it fails! Calibrations and inspections on emmision equipment aren't done like they're supposed to be. Sorry to rant but have been a tech over 20yrs. and don't like the system there is a wrong way and a right way and the system is wrong.
 

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Heritage, not Hate
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the advice. I've driven about 50 miles since the inspection and the engine light still has not come back on. The gas cap showed pass. The inspector dude said it was because the battery had been disconnected or the use of jumper cables. The papers also said it was likely due to battery being disconnected. But it hasn't.


I was on fumes when I stopped at some stop and rob and bought $20 of gas until I could get to a reputable fuel station (which I have yet to do). I will top off tomorrow morning and hit the freeway for a little bit of driving.

The 3 year/36K warranty has expired...do have a 100K power train warranty. The dealer wants a hundred dollars just to look at it. :(
 

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Thanks for all the advice. I've driven about 50 miles since the inspection and the engine light still has not come back on. The gas cap showed pass. The inspector dude said it was because the battery had been disconnected or the use of jumper cables. The papers also said it was likely due to battery being disconnected. But it hasn't.

I was on fumes when I stopped at some stop and rob and bought $20 of gas until I could get to a reputable fuel station (which I have yet to do). I will top off tomorrow morning and hit the freeway for a little bit of driving.

The 3 year/36K warranty has expired...do have a 100K power train warranty. The dealer wants a hundred dollars just to look at it. :(
Help us help you. What is the motor model & the mileage. The 3/36 likely does not come into play here.
 
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