Scoops

You can put larger intake scoops on, you have to modify the G1 scoops to fit as Evinrude is not making any for the G2 yet. The kit you are hearing about was to correct a steam pocket issue on a few motors in a certain serial number range.

 

Sounds to me like a design problem that evinrude should fix for free.

 

My lower unit has the oversize scoops on the side intake. This a new motor with 15 hrs and the kit/labor is covered under warranty.

 

With a new motor I would take it back and let them figure it out. Might be as simple as set up on gauges not correct, or could be faulty water pump, etc...

 

I know on the first Gens you had to pull the sending unit from the head and relocate it by attaching a small nipple with a small tube to eliminate electrolysis in saltwater. It would prematurely set the alarm off. Surely they don't still have that design?

 

From day one, have you always had just 30 psi?? Most of the ones I have sold have 40 plus! Do u ever start the engine with the water pump out of the water? Raised up on jack plate starting engine, pump will not prime itself and will put years of wear in 30 seconds and even melt impeller and housing.It will do it so fast, you won't believe it.

 

Mine has had 30 to 35 psi since day one. I haven't had an issue with it priming. I always start mine with the motor all the way down on the jack plate.

 

I just recently got the new hi flow screens in. They may help your situation. There is also the aforementioned larger tubing kit for more flow getting hot water out of the block

 

That is absolutely more important on a G2 than a gen1. Always put the water pump under water on a G 2

 

I've had this boat on the water 5 or 6 six times and didn't have this problem until the last trip. The alarm came on and I backed off the throttle. It cleared in about 30 sec with the motor running. I put it in reverse and throttled it a bit to see if I picked up some grass or plastic bag. Nothing. I switched my ICON gauge so I could watch the temp and water pressure at the same time. Started down the ICW again with motor all the way down and trimmed under. 4500 rpm the temp was steady at 185. When I ran it up to 5K the temp stared rising until the alarm came on at about 195.

 

See a dealer as there are several temp sensors in a G2 that are not in a G1 or older Evinrude. The tech will be able to use the laptop to find which sensor(s) gave an alarm plus when and how hot.

 

Yeah, mine was #3 cylinder. All that info was sent to Evinrude.

 

I had an issue with mine overheating. I took water pump apart and found that the alignment ears on the cup had sheard off and the cup had turned restricting flow to the engine. It still had good water pressure also. I was able to run engine at low rpm without overheating.


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I had an issue with mine overheating. I took water pump apart and found that the alignment ears on the cup had sheard off and the cup had turned restricting flow to the engine. It still had good water pressure also. I was able to run engine at low rpm without overheating.

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I am going to have them check the pump as well when they get into adding the cooling kit. Thank you for the info.

 

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The Evinrude E-TEC G2 has additional temperature sensors that the older E-TECs did not have. Your dealer can hook up the laptop and see exactly where the overheat condition is occurring.

There is an exhaust cooling water nozzle that can be oriented incorrectly and set off an overheat alarm. Your dealer can check the engine serial number to see if the bulletin applies to your motor. Inside the powerhead are a few screens to catch cooling water debris and one or more could be restricted.

 

The Evinrude E-TEC G2 has additional temperature sensors that the older E-TECs did not have. Your dealer can hook up the laptop and see exactly where the overheat condition is occurring.

There is an exhaust cooling water nozzle that can be oriented incorrectly and set off an overheat alarm. Your dealer can check the engine serial number to see if the bulletin applies to your motor. Inside the powerhead are a few screens to catch cooling water debris and one or more could be restricted.

My engine didn't come back with the bulletin for the nozzle issue. They haven't received the kit yet but I will pass along the screen info. Thank you.

 

Ronnie, can the damage to impellor fins happen if running the engine while using the hose port?

 

According to the BRP owners manual, you can flush the engine thru the flushport with the engine running at IDLE speed only with out impeller damage. I personally do not even crank one over, without water hooked up. The water serves as a lubricant during the flushing procedure. These G/2 engines have a totally different impeller wear plate and housing from older Evinrudes and Johnsons. the cup has multiple vent slots. If you run it dry, it will rip up the impeller and the friction will try to twist the cup inside the housing , causing you no end of grief

 

It should be understood that running an impeller dry will burn it up, but why would a manufacturer design a system that will be run on a flats boat that is prone to that much damage if it is run dry for a short period of time?

 

A neighbor of mine had a similar issue on a Etec G2 on his new boat. 5 trips out, 5 alarms, 5 putt putt/tow's back to the house. Took the boat back to the dealer, called BRP and said "change the motor to Yamaha. Lawyers are on stand by. Ball is in your court." A few months later he had a new Yamaha.

I am interested to see how this turns out. I really like Etec's and am considering repowering my boat with a new 200 Gen 1 Etec.

 

A neighbor of mine had a similar issue on a Etec G2 on his new boat. 5 trips out, 5 alarms, 5 putt putt/tow's back to the house. Took the boat back to the dealer, called BRP and said "change the motor to Yamaha. Lawyers are on stand by. Ball is in your court." A few months later he had a new Yamaha.

I am interested to see how this turns out. I really like Etec's and am considering repowering my boat with a new 200 Gen 1 Etec.

I've heard allot of good things about the G2's, considered them on a repower a couple years ago, but were a little out of budget, but wow, I can't even begin to imagine how frustrating that must be to have to "tweak" and modify a brand new engine just to get it to run properly, and to think if it's that finicky or requires these modifications when new, what about when it gets some hours on it, or it is just out of warranty?

I truly hope this all works out and turns out to be an anomaly, covered under warranty, or else I would be following lawyer / engine swap path in a heart beat.

Relentless

 

I would sure be interested in looking at the data log off your buddies G/2. to see what codes were thrown, and whether or not all factory recommended updates had been performed. were they cooling related codes ? or do you know?Do you think he has a copy of the data printout?

 

Update. New bigger water circulating tubes put in along with new water pump. Getting 40 psi water pressure at WOT with temp getting into the 190's. Still higher temp than what I like but Evinrude says that's acceptable range.... Will see.

 

Standard operating procedure for Etec, sell them high and run out quick when they have a problem and train the dealers to tell the customer it's a operators issue, nothing wrong with the motor, Right Charlie K.

 

How is it over heating at 30 psi of water pressure. Our 300 xs Mercury only needs 14 psi at WOT to stay cool.

 

It is a totally different system. All the pressure in the world wont help if you can't get the hot water OUT of the powerhead due to stuck thermostats, stuck pressure relief valves, block restrictions, etc.

 

Until it is on a diagnostic computer to monitor overheat codes , and all the different temp sensors,,etc. you cant say. it may just be a bad sensor giving a FALSE overheat

 

What is your idea of a "short time"? Does any manufacturer advocate "Dry" running?

 

I don't think any of them will support running dry for any length of time, it's not the intended purpose, no more so than a motorcycle manufacturer warranty their motorcycle if it was laid down only for a short period of time as they are prone to do

Relentless

 

When underway the water is force fed into the water pump thru the dual intakes, so raising the jack plate up, causing the pump to run dry is impossible. But when you start the engine, say on a cat type hull , the water pump can be 4 to 5 inches above water level. as it is mounted on the top of the gearcase. It wont prime itself, you have to submerge the pump to get it primed and picking up water, then you can lift the jackplate and maintain water pickup

 

You can get a lemon with any brand. Personally I think the mfg and / or dealer should step up and replace them quickly when it happens. There are a ton of G2's on the water on the middle coast and very few posts like this.

190+ sounds high. I'd push your dealer or take it to Ronnie. I have 75 hours on mine and only broke 190 once when I was putting (like 800rpm) along shallow looking for fish not paying attention and something blocked the intakes with no suction force to clear before I noticed it. Cleared up quickly with some higher rpm. Even jacked up for long runs I don't see 190, usually 170-180.

 

This........

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"so raising the jack plate up, causing the pump to run dry is impossible"

Please explain. I have a Majek xtreame and a Maverick HPX-T. Both of these boats are set up so that the water inlets can be raised out of the water and lose water pressure while under way if the jack plate is raised to high.

Does the G2 have some kind of special inlet at the bottom of the skeg that I don't know about?