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Tabula Rasa
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not much help on the DIY forum so asking here. I'm going to do a stone veneer or slate tile design (4"x4" tiles) on a wall in the kitchen. It seperates the kitchen from the living room and will be mostly the arches and columns. I think it will look really good as an accent wall in the kitchen. Does anyone know if I can apply the thinset directly to the painted wall or will I need to put up some type of lathe on the wall first for better adhesiveness. Here is a picture of what I may do (not including the glass insert) I like this multi color slate tile set on a diagonal. Thanks for any input:
 

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swifty
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I'll preface this with I'm NOT a pro but refuse to pay someone to put up tile...

Do not put up thinset on a sheetrock wall and expect it to stay too long. I've never done this but have always been told not to do so.

What I did in our bathroom walls - took the sheetrock down and put hardi-backer up, thinset, tile, grout. Sounds like a PIA but do it right the first time.

swifty
 

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The older I get, the better I was.
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Not a pro here either, but I would not apply it directly to a painted wall. What I did was put the Hardibacker on the sheet rock and screwed it down very well. Make sure you hit the studs. Threw the tile on the wall with liquid nails and then grouted the tiles. Granted, I was doing a back splash behind the stove. With the raised surface the Hardibacker and tile created on the wall I put some trim pieces to cover the edges. It has held up nicely for a couple of years now.:biggrin:
 

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Reel Easy
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If it's not a wet area you could just put the tile on plywood that is screwed over the sheetrock.

Hardibacker is for setting tile in a wet area.
 

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Tiny is Gone... Hi, My Name is ROGER
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Just pull out the sheet rock and put the backer board like you're supposed to. Don't waste your time trying to half-arse it and save a little work and money... trust me, it will be cheaper if done right.

And if you got a good place to hunt, offer up a trade for somebody to come and help you out with it... labor only of course...
 

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Winter Hater
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I'll preface this with I'm NOT a pro but refuse to pay someone to put up tile...

Do not put up thinset on a sheetrock wall and expect it to stay too long. I've never done this but have always been told not to do so.

What I did in our bathroom walls - took the sheetrock down and put hardi-backer up, thinset, tile, grout. Sounds like a PIA but do it right the first time.

swifty
what swifty said. i'm no pro, but have done some. if you read on the subject, i don't think anybody will recommend applying directly onto drywall. take down the drywall... mm1
 

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Tabula Rasa
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I spoke with my tile guy just now (finally got back to me) and he said he has done several jobs putting tile directly to a painted wall. He said to just take sand paper and rough it up for an even better adhesion and then use mastik or thinset. These will either be 4"x 4" slate tiles or a veneer product so it's not going to be heavy.

I'll post a pic of the job when done.
 

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non-politically correct
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Backerboard is the best bet. Thinset on sheetrock is a bad idea but if you make this happen you will be redoing the job in the not do distant future IMHO.
 

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swifty
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On regular ole sheetrock\drywall? 4x4 Slate is heavier than regular tiles 4x4 tiles... Hek, take a pic of it in a few years and if it's still up and secure, I just might take his word on it and do it myself. :biggrin: Just kidding of course...

Good luck in your DIY adventures!! Take a pic of your patio as I'm ready to do one of those myself too and could always use some ideas.

swifty

I spoke with my tile guy just now (finally got back to me) and he said he has done several jobs putting tile directly to a painted wall. He said to just take sand paper and rough it up for an even better adhesion and then use mastik or thinset. These will either be 4"x 4" slate tiles or a veneer product so it's not going to be heavy.

I'll post a pic of the job when done.
 

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Seems like putting directly on the painted wall your relying on how good the paint is adhered to the sheetrock. Thats alot of weight to be hoping the paint is stuck good.
My $.02........
 

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Winter Hater
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I spoke with my tile guy just now (finally got back to me) and he said he has done several jobs putting tile directly to a painted wall. He said to just take sand paper and rough it up for an even better adhesion and then use mastik or thinset. These will either be 4"x 4" slate tiles or a veneer product so it's not going to be heavy.

I'll post a pic of the job when done.
hate to hear about you doing it this way. it'll look good for a while, but not as long as it could. i wouldn't use a tile guy that recommended this, just sayin. but good luck!
 

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Tabula Rasa
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Below is a response from the DIY foum from a mason. I think I'm confusing you guys with what product I'll use. The 4" x 4" slate is a veneer or manufactured product and was light as a regular tile but I'm also looking at the 1" stone veneer products that are on a mesh backing. So I'm not concerned with the weight.

I'm a mason, and while I'm not a fan of the manufactured stone or the lick and stick type application, the interior of a home is the perfect place for these types of veneer.

I know of several masonry supply companies that you could contact, look at the product lines. You can install the thin set products yourself, but a 12'' x 12'' stone is pretty heavy so you might need to adjust your choice of size.


Baynick response:

Most supply companies have what is a 1'' thick natural stone that can be adhered to most interior drywall surfaces with a suitable mastic. This mastic comes in a 2-3 gallon bucket, and can be applied directly to the drywall. ( you might need to get your painted surfaces approved ). Just remember when ordering that you will need to get the square footage( length x hieght ) and a linear footage of corners. The material is ordered by the square foot for flats and also by the linear footage for corners.
 

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Just pull out the sheet rock and put the backer board like you're supposed to. Don't waste your time trying to half-arse it and save a little work and money... trust me, it will be cheaper if done right.

And if you got a good place to hunt, offer up a trade for somebody to come and help you out with it... labor only of course...
is that a hint? :D
 

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Weve put up thousands of feet of tile in the restaraunts we build on sheetrock... use the right mastik and youll be fine. Almost all the time its new sheetrock so i definately suggest trying to get the paint and texture off or cut it out and replace it. Good Luck!
 

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Weve put up thousands of feet of tile in the restaraunts we build on sheetrock... use the right mastik and youll be fine. Almost all the time its new sheetrock so i definately suggest trying to get the paint and texture off or cut it out and replace it. Good Luck!
This seems correct to me. We remodled a bathroom this summer and I cut out the old green board and replaced it with new. The green board is just sheetrock with moisture resistant paper covering. It stuck great with thinset as this is the typical procedure when installing. I would think the tile would stick just fine to sheetrock. Cut out the textured wall and screw in some new sheetrock and get to tileing. I would not use Hardibacker as this is for wet areas I believe. Its more expensive than either green board or sheetrock and harder to cut. Good luck.

PS - We have a nice stone backsplash in our kitchen and you can see up under the cabinets in a few spots that it was installed right over the sheetrock. Don't buy your grout from Lowes, I wasn't very pleased with the color consistency. Home Depot seems to sell better products IMHO.
 
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