Cutting Transom loose???

Kingfisher

Yes I did. Was going to do what you said, then looked at it again and realized that I dont' even have to put that old cap back on so I cut a 1.5 inch wide piece off the top. Its been a hell of a long day. The "person" that did the last transom screwed the 2 pieces together with SS screws. Found by my chainsaws today....

Anyway gotta go sharpen a chain on the 30 incher and cut some more Modnay nite. Have a few hard spots of wood that dont want to saw out real good and the glass between teh 2 sheets is giving headaches but I suspect by 5pm Monday I'll have some type of cutting wheel on like a hand crank drill to get down in there 25 inches down and cut the bottom of the glass loose.

If all goes well I'll have some longhandled chisels for Tuesday to clean it all up, glass in a few spacer blocks, glass in a few edge areas, figure out how to back up the exterior transom with a sheet of 3/4 ply and I'll be ready to mix up 2 buckets and pour the new transom in.

I remember the itch again from working in a boat factory! Yuck.

Thanks, Jeff

Update. According to the wife, 11-12 hours of chainsaw/etc... to get all the wood out. No holes or other damage. Poured first run of transom and let sit 1.5 hours to cool, poured second run and capped with a layer of mat and covered that with resin a bit to help soak in the mat. Have to build up about 3/8 inch with mat and resin and put the cap back on and then do some gel coat repairs and the transom should be ready to go. Gotta recall how to bell the drain plugs and put a few holes back in the transom and we'll be getting close to figuring out where to mount the engine again. I have a newer motor and going to put a manually adjustable jack plate on it for max elevation tuning, not really for shallow water but in case I don't decide on the correct mounting height initially-- IE the top of that cav plate with the bottom of the v hull.

Worked well but long days.

Jeff