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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a Chronarch CH100B to use for Inshore fishing. I was going to buy the CH100BSV, but Academy was out of these. I have been a little disappointed in the casting distance on this reel when throwing 1/16 and 1/8 oz. jigs and bass assassins. I have the reel on a 6'9" All Star Titanium AST TTS1 medium-light rod w/ 8# P-Line CX-Premium line (There are some pretty good sales on these All Star Titaniums since they were discontinued)



Several friends have suggested a few things:

1. Clean out the factory oil from the bearings and re-lube w/ hot sauce or rocket fuel

2. Use a performance 20# braid line - power pro or Sufix performance braid



Other comments I've heard -

1. The BSV might have cast a little better due to a larger spool

2. The rod may not "load up" w/ the lighter baits



I like the set-up, it is very light and not hard on the hands, but I would like to get 40-45 yards casting w/ the light bait.



I would be interested in any opinions on the subject.
 

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Get Off My Bay!
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You got alot of good suggestions. I don't think you need the rocket fuel, but if it makes you feel better do it. Clean the bearings with degreaser first, then use a light oil, rem oil is less viscosity than both the products you mentioned and it is easy to get.

I use braid and prefer it, but to say that it always outcasts mono, I can't.

Only other think I can think of is check to see how many brakes you have on, I only use two, and then check the tension on the spool brake, the small knob near the handle, it might be to tight. Oh and on the brake "ring", the brass part that the brakes spin in and make contact, make sure it is clean and dry, no oil, or it wil slow them down and catch crud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Deke -
I worked it down to 3 brakes after a few "yard casts" the day I got it - just haven't been able to get it to 2 yet. Maybe the line will help some. The spool brake knob has been loosened to the point that it free-falls when I disengage the spool. I haven't looked at the brake ring to see if it had oil or dirt around it - I'll make sure it is clean when I clean and re-lube the bearings.



The box that the reel came in had a package of additional weights - some pink ones and some light green ones. The pink ones look like what came on the reel. Do you know if the light green ones are heavier or lighter?



Thanks for the ideas.
 

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I use the Chronarch BSV, and love it. The only thing that I can tell you is keep it oiled. I oil it after every other trip due to the open bearings. This is what I told by a Shimano rep, after initially having problems with distance. The new open bearings do not hold the lubricant as long as the old enclosed ones did. On my old Shimano's, I oiled very little, the new ones are a little different. Also, the reel usually comes with 2 weights in the out position right out of the box, this has worked best for me, after experimenting every other way. As far oils, keep em' thin-thin-thin. X1R or ReelX have performed great for me. Tried the rocket fuel, didn't like it, seems like the viscosity was a little thick. Still got a brand new bottle sitting on my table...Hope this helps.
 

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Get Off My Bay!
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Bis, I'm not sure about the colored weights. I'd put it to two, make sure the ring is dry and clean and then adjust your spool tension. Tighten it then cast, then loosen ever so slightly, then cast, repeat until you get it casting how you like. when I went from three to two weights it made a big difference, also make sure the weights you choose are opposites, to keep it balanced.

If what CT says is true about the new bearings then make sure you keep them oiled. I put a drop on each bearing after a couple of trips, I use Rem Oil, it has a super low viscosity so it won't gum up your bearings and I can get away with adding more oil. A year or two ago a guy posted a viscosity chart on oils. Rocket fuel was not near the top for low viscosity if I can remember. I started using the Rem oil when Warren at Cut Rate on I-10 told me to, he knows his stuff, since I made the change I have seen much better performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I see what the Shimano rep was saying........there is a lot of oil on these bearings. I have some Reel-X but never tried it. I don't think I have any Rem oil, I'll see what Academy has. For now, I will probably clean and use Reel-X since it is handy. I have removed the two outer bearings, but the one w/ the larger shaft diameter seems to be buried w/ a plate in the way. Do I need a special tool to get this plate off? It looks like you remove a set screw and then unscrew the plate using a tool w/ two small pins that fit into two corresponding holes (apprx 3/4 inch apart) partially drilled into the plate. Am I on the right track or is there an easier / correct way?

I just saw on Heartland Tackle web site that the green weights are 50% heavier, I'll stay w/ the pink.
 

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Get Off My Bay!
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Are you going from the inside? I mean have you removed the handle and the exterior plate/cover from the left side? I just use a small screwdriver. Make sure you watch all the small parts , I do this over paper towels, they all show up well on white. I lost a part once, so I'm paranoid now. Reel-X should be fine, less viscosity than RF I beleive.
 

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Opinion..

1/8 and certainly,1/16 oz is pretty light weights for a baitcaster. Spinners can handle them, but that is awfully light for a baitcaster. They are generally designed to handle 1/4 oz up to 3/4 oz. I think most everyone would have probs with a 1/16 oz weight.

Later
R3F
 

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have you'all tried the chronarch 50MB reels? I can toss a 2 1/2 inch live shrimp
on a #8 treble, no weights, using Trilene 12lb mono, farther than I can with a Shimano open face spinning reel. This reel is great for tossing small jigs/tails.
 

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I throw 1/8 ounce spoons with my BSV, and get pretty good distance, Just takes practice. I only use 12lb mono, after having tried braided line many times. I just don't see the advantage to braid, unless you fish around structure alot, or you need a ton of line on your reel, which usually isn't the case when trout fishing. Granted, I've had my share of (Hookups-Breakoffs-Stripoffs) with big Jacks and Reds on mono, but not enough to make me switch over to braid. And it just never felt right when using it.......Oh yeah, I've had it happen with braid also, they can break it too..... Just my observation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well it took a while, but have successfully completed my first reel disassembly and cleaning. Thanks for the pointers Deke. The white paper towels idea helped a bunch, but it was finally taking the handle off and getting to the bearing from the correct side that did the trick. OK - I am new at this ............... I was able to get the inner bearing out, cleaned and re-lubed w/ Reel-X. Like the other bearings, it was also very heavy w/ oil. After putting it all back together, I am down to weights and getting 38 yds or so. Hopefully can get a little more as I get practiced up. The total lure weight is about 3/8ths of an oz (1/8 oz jig and a bass assassin). I am getting virtually no back lashes and I can cast very comfortably. Maybe I had some crud in the bearings, but the reel was new?? Hard to believe that excess factory oil could make that much difference but who knows. I will definitely keep it lubed after each trip - these bearings are sure wide open. It's great to have access to great advice!!

Oh - I have been casting in the street and the line occaisionally gets hung on the gravel in the asphalt. I figured I would break the line a few times, but no problems. I seems that this P-Line is perty darn tough.
 

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bismic if you had put the bearings in a small plastic bottle with some naptha or lighter fluid and soaked them for a while then shook the bottle good , you would have been suprised at what washed out of the bearings. dry the bearings out throuhly then reoil them using a sharpned wood dowel to spin the bearing , you will feel the oil seat in an smooth out the bearing after it does this i will usually add 1 more drop of oil working it through the bearing, this process is important on the bearings on the spool, as they are the ones that have the most direct effect on your casting. if you oil the bearings after you install them, an get too much it will also hurt your distance. You can polish the brake ring inner surface if you desire using a dremel tool an a small wooden dowell fitted with a brass polishing material or cotton wrapped on the end an dipped in fine polishing compound, do this when you have the bearing out for cleaning that way you don't get any grit in the bearing. After you get it broken it it will cast better I have 2 of the old gold chronarchs that I cast an assiassin with only a worm hook rigged in it. Good luck
 

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bis, good for you on the break down. Many people are intimidated by that, but it will save you money and keep the reel running better, longer.

38yds is a long way, plus with the wind at your back on the water you will get more distance. I would change your line after doing the street practice thing though. Any nick in the line can be the weak link between you and a good fish. I would say just cut off about 30yds or so but then your distance will suffer, a full reel casts farther.
 

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I would stay away form reel x. I had it on my reel for the first trip and it sucked.. To thick IMO When I went to the boat show the rep told me to stay away from it and get some rem oil.. you can get it at walmat. I have it on it now and it throws a hell of alot better.. Not bad for 3 buxs
 

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Bis, congrats on the successful takedown and re-assembly. If you saved your reel box with the exploded diagram of the reel, you have an excellent reference tool if you find you have parts left over after a takedown. Using white paper is smart. Another hint is lining the parts up in the order you remove them on the paper towel. Just follow the trail in reverse to put 'er back together. Tight lines...
 

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Bismic,

I wouldn't worry too much about the casting distance. I have the same reel and I hated it early on, almost took it back. I cleaned it well and it seemed to have needed a "break in" period. I love it now and it casts a mile. Good luck.
 

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Wipe down the rims of the spool, as well as the inside of the reel, where the rims run close to. The reel has very close tolerances and a little bit of lube can span that gap and really hurt your casing distance.


Good job on the successful reel break down!
 

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As usual, a lot of good advice was shared here, I have 4 newer Chronarch's , I think?? 2 of each . Mike shared some good advice, as well as Deke and the rest. The B is the wiffle spool like the old Super free Chron's, and BSV has a heavier V spool. I think I have started out with one brake out and the 3 in ?? Because of the Rod and Braid I use. 38 yards hmmm Thats chunkin' (pert near good dude..) I would do like Deke said and start off using light viscosity oil. I have had good luck so far .. Pretty much a care free reel ??? If you keep them clean .. Just 2 cents ..
 

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not at all too light

I routinely throw 1/16 on my curado 100B / allstar top water special, and rarely go over 1/8 oz (I fish shallow). In fact, I even throw 1/16 + sand eel jrs. w/ no probs. I can chunk a 1/16 + assasin style plastic a long way.

Red3Fish said:
1/8 and certainly,1/16 oz is pretty light weights for a baitcaster. Spinners can handle them, but that is awfully light for a baitcaster. They are generally designed to handle 1/4 oz up to 3/4 oz. I think most everyone would have probs with a 1/16 oz weight.

Later
R3F
 
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