Im having same issue with one of my boats and its annoying especially at the ramp when everyone is waiting on you lol. I'm about to fabricate a nose stop and have it pull straight between the bow stop I build where its basically self aligning. Ill Post pictures once I get around to it.

 

A receiver hitch trailer ball "stinger" that has more drop might help a little.

 

You will need to redesign trailer to support the bow properly but can change all that to a bow nose stop.

Or take to George in Pearland at South Texas Boat Works and he can glass in a lil ramp of sorts that smooths the bow to the gunnel lip allowing roller to slide right by.

 

Usually, the bow hanging up on the bow stop is a sign of backing in too deep causing the stern to rise and the bow to drop. Therefore, putting less boat in the water is the normal solution. Also a keel roller after the bunks and before the bow stop is another potential help for this type of situation. However, it looks like you have tried both of these with no luck.

Another thing I seen done to get around this issue is to let out a foot of strap off of the winch before backing in all the way, tap the brakes on the way down the ramp when the back of the boat hits the water and get the bow to slide back off the stop before getting to full launch depth. Not optimal I know, but if you just have to launch every once in a while if you keep your boat on a sling or only occasionally visit a steep ramp, this may get you by. Just be careful not leave the winch in free spool and only let out enough line to clear the stop.

Just curious, does this happen to you at the Sea Isle neighborhood ramp?

 

Thanks for the input .. I thought that extra keel roller after the bunks but before the stop would solve the issues also. I don't have issues using the sea isle ramp because it is not very steep but I use this boat mostly on lakes and most of the ramps i use are steep and especially becomes an issue if the lake is below full pool, I keep my Shearwater in sea isle full time in a lift so the bluewave does not see salt water very much anymore.

Spraying the bunks down so the boat will slip off faster would probably work but I know me and i'd end up forgetting the strap and dropping the boat off the trailer. Thought about having a stop fabricated that would catch the bow lower down the "V" and a separate winch post.

 

My guess is the trailer is too far into the water. I have the same boat but don’t have that issue. I use plastic bunks, which are not popular on this forum. Silicon spray on your carpeted bunks would help the boat slide on and off without the trailer so far into the water, thus eliminating the nose of the boat hooking your eye roller.

 

Don’t back in as far. Power on/off the trailer with the boat motor. When powering on, don’t drown your motor.

 

I had a similar problem on a Carolina Skiff but it had a large groove on the front (not just the lip). Solved it by replacing the bow roller with a really large/tall bow roller. The circumference was large enough to keep it from getting stuck in the groove. You obviously need to adjust the winch post a little lower to compensate. Not sure if that's an option or would help in your situation without seeing it.

 

I built a lower bow stop on my skinny water boat that would probably work, though I did mine this way for other reasons...to teach the kiddos how to drive the boat on the trailer. They have these on larger offshore boat trailers and the hardware is available I'm sure...as seen in the other picture.

 

BWGaurdian that is exactly what i was thinking about that would help out.

 

Same issue with a 22 Extreme. If someone is with me I just tell them come back and slam the brakes. By myself I just leave about a foot of slack in the winch, come back hit the brakes then get in and drive it off. Its pretty bad at the fat boys ramp

The problem is the exact trailer depth where the boat is still "flush" with the trailer isnt far enough in to get the boat off. So again, I just slam the brakes so the bow breaks loose.

 

Used to do that until a buddy of mine went to far in the water at the right boat ramp. Needles to say it cost me $450 to repair the busted fiberglass and I had a new skid gel coated in under the nose like sgrem said. I don't have this issue any more.

 

I have a 17' whaler on a sportsman trailer and it does the same thing. I thought I was the only one with this problem an I do as bss said but I raise my rollers up. When I'm loading I don't pull it al the way up but enough to hook the cable, then I pull it up the ramp pull the plug, winch it the rest of the way up and drop the rollers.

 

Same issue here. I have to pull the trailer up the ramp a foot or so after I have driven the boat on the trailer and then the bow lifts and clears the stop. Its a pain when I'm by myself but it's about the only way to make sure the bow is winched to the stop.

 

Totally solved my problem on my shallowsport. I did also take them to a machine shop and had the face of the wheel tapered to fit the boat taper .

https://www.carid.com/stoltz-indust...RDOARIsANMDykat9QU6ypeOojDyvnGzSkbG_LDOiLKO1JfjtButc0JGd6sWFWznBAUaAo-JEALw_wcB

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Interesting I’ll check that out


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You can enlongate how far your bow eye sticks out...

 

I’ve experienced the same problem many times over many years with the same boat on two trailers. It’s worse when the tide is really high and we can’t hit the brakes hard when backing down the ramp and the boat starts floating early. Large rollers like those posted will help and I’m ordering a set. Hope they don’t sell out before I get there lol. I’ve been planning to get the bow glassed in as mentioned earlier but haven’t done it yet.

 

I went out and measured my current rollers and I don’t think the 8” ones will fit. My current rollers which were the largest I could find at the time are 5” diameter. Those helped.

 

Curious as to why folks don’t like the teflon bunks that screw down to the carpeted bunks. I have same problem and that seemed like a logical solution so I didn’t have to back the trailer so far into the water.


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HDPE

Curious as to why folks don’t like the teflon bunks that screw down to the carpeted bunks. I have same problem and that seemed like a logical solution so I didn’t have to back the trailer so far into the water.

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Many discussions here about the plastic strips. I've put them on ever boat I've ever had without issue. This is a brand new coast line trailer I bought. Ordered it without any carpet on the boards and no fender well wood. In less than an hour and less than $100 bucks, the trailer was done. This particular boat has over 500 hours on it, so it has slid on and off the trailer hundreds of times. I never have an issue launching or loading at any ramp, even by myself. On a steep ramp, the front axle never hits the water.

And by the way, this is on a Bluewave 22 classic, same boat as the OP.

.

 

Many years ago (most of my posts start like that) I owned a number of Carolina Skiffs. I also ran the MS Carolina Skiff Group way back then. Every CS had the same problem.

I came up with the "Wheel" solution. It appears that a number of commercial products are out now that improved on the design by using better materials. Easy Peezy. richg99

 

Many years ago (most of my posts start like that) I owned a number of Carolina Skiffs. I also ran the MS Carolina Skiff Group way back then. Every CS had the same problem.

I came up with the "Wheel" solution. It appears that a number of commercial products are out now that improved on the design by using better materials. Easy Peezy. richg99

i like the big "wheel" idea .. very cool that you came up with it before it was mainstream. thanks for the info.

 

No issues with sand, dirt, salt, causing scratches with teflon bunks?

Carpet could also be prone to this, but the standards of carpet would make it easier to conceal and particles and be less prone to scratching the hull as opposed to a slick surface

Relentless

 

I buy plain old half inch thick HDPE from any plastic provider. You can beat those prices by buying on line. It's easy to cut and drill.

I'm sure there may be scratches from the sand and salt up on the nose area where it first hits, it's a white hull though. Last time I buffed the hull it looked new again, so whatever is there doesn't bother me.

I know Sgrem had major issues, but I've had this boat on two different makes of trailers with bunks in different locations. There is no wear where the hull rides on the bunks. Original trailer was a Magnum and this newer trailer is a 2016 Coastline.

I lived on Padre Island for 7 years with this boat and a couple others. I launched this thing at the POA launch almost weekly, sometimes more when I could sneak away from work.

 

I've put plastic PVC Gutter Downspouts on my tinnys for years now.

Amazing, (given how thin the material is), that 2 or 3 years later and lots of launches, that they haven't worn through.

About $15.00 total cost including nails.

richg99
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40137&hilit=bunks

 

I had the same problem with my 99 Pathfinder. I ended up putting an extra set of bunks forward of the bunks that were on the trailer. They spanned the two front cross members, and were located closer to the keel of the boat. Seems to have solved the problem for me.