Best Chem. for Mold?
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Bleach.
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I would mix at least 1/3 bleach strong from what you are describing. I might even be inclined to try some muratic acid and water prior to the bleach.
This question came up in an earlier post. D2, you might want to check out posts #6 & #9 in this thread.
http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=180861&highlight=bleach+mold+wood
Good luck on your clean-up project.
http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=180861&highlight=bleach+mold+wood
Good luck on your clean-up project.
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3,826 Posts
Bleach, maybe even a 50/50 solution in a spray bottle, then use soap/water to clean it all off.
Be careful and you might want to get a respirator and some latex gloves. That stuff can wreak havoc on you once it gets airborn, especially if you're allergic.
Be careful and you might want to get a respirator and some latex gloves. That stuff can wreak havoc on you once it gets airborn, especially if you're allergic.
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6,225 Posts
here's a link to a site that tells why NOT to use Bleach...in short it will kill mold on hard non porous surfaces. Wood is a porous surface and bleach should not be used....
Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA's and EPA's updated recommendations and suggested guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.
Why Chlorine Bleach is NOT Recommended for Mold Remediation.
Clorine bleach is corrosive and that fact is stated on the product label (not to mention the exposure hazards of dioxins). Yet the properties of chlorine bleach prevent it from "soaking into" wood-based building materials to get at the deeply embedded mycelia (roots) of mold. The object to killing mold is to kill its "roots". Reputable mold remediation contractors use appropriate products that effectively disinfect properly scrubbed and cleaned salvageable mold infected wood products. Beware of any mold inspector, mold remediation contractor or other individual that recommends or uses chlorine bleach for mold clean up on wood-based building materials.
http://www.spore-tech.com/viewCategory.asp?idCategory=78
of course I have been sent pm's by some here on 2cool that believe mold remediation is a scam business and just a bunch of junk science so take it for what it's worth.
Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA's and EPA's updated recommendations and suggested guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.
Why Chlorine Bleach is NOT Recommended for Mold Remediation.
Clorine bleach is corrosive and that fact is stated on the product label (not to mention the exposure hazards of dioxins). Yet the properties of chlorine bleach prevent it from "soaking into" wood-based building materials to get at the deeply embedded mycelia (roots) of mold. The object to killing mold is to kill its "roots". Reputable mold remediation contractors use appropriate products that effectively disinfect properly scrubbed and cleaned salvageable mold infected wood products. Beware of any mold inspector, mold remediation contractor or other individual that recommends or uses chlorine bleach for mold clean up on wood-based building materials.
http://www.spore-tech.com/viewCategory.asp?idCategory=78
of course I have been sent pm's by some here on 2cool that believe mold remediation is a scam business and just a bunch of junk science so take it for what it's worth.
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589 Posts
you know those stain used on fences ?
brush that stuff on, it will kill the existing mold and prevent future mold problems
but you should look at the root problem and fix it; how water got there in the first
place or how that section was damp most of the time
brush that stuff on, it will kill the existing mold and prevent future mold problems
but you should look at the root problem and fix it; how water got there in the first
place or how that section was damp most of the time
The cause of the mold / damage has to go to Mr. Ike that took 50% of my roof off.......
But with much thanks to the Blue Roof program from FEMA we tarped and waiting on the new roof.......
The no bleach stories I am getting are the same as what the Home Depot guy told me.....
Thanks to all.........
But with much thanks to the Blue Roof program from FEMA we tarped and waiting on the new roof.......
The no bleach stories I am getting are the same as what the Home Depot guy told me.....
Thanks to all.........
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3,782 Posts
Some of the off the shelf products that you can use for mold and mildew:
1. Bleach. (sodium hypochlorite) Household bleach is 5.25% as sold in the stores. You can use it straight or cut it half and half with water. As you cut it, it will penetrate better. But is it mildly corrosive and will assault a sensitive nose. Will bleach the color out of any fabric and kill plants if saturated with a bleach solution.
2. Hydogen Peroxide. As sold in the stores, it is a 3% solution and can be sprayed on with a spray bottle. Not as effective as bleach initially, but it does work, albeit more slowly. A very very mild oxidizer. Most non chlorine bleaches are made with hydrogen peroxide and can be used to kill light mold and mildew.
3. Consan Triple Action 20. A combination quaternary disinfectant/mildewcide that is very effective on any mold and mildew. Mix with water according to directions. Key is to keep the side WET for 10 minutes. It has a 99.999% efficacy if label instructions are followed. Faint chemical smell. Very similar chemical to Lysol. Available at big box stores and plant houses.
4. Swimming Pool Algaecide. Another quaternary disinfectant/algecide/mildewcide in a 10% solution with water. Efficacy similar to Triple Action 20 as the active is essentially similar. Still need a 10 minute wet time.
All of the above recommendations are predicated on removing all the mold and mildew you can using mechanical means (brush washing, scrubbing, power washing, etc). These chemicals are not very good penetrants and requires you to remove as much of the mold and mildew as possible so the chemicals can be effective on the residue. If you have a heavy mold and spray any of the above on them, it will only kill the surface layer....it will come back almost immediately. So wash the area very well and only use the chemicals on the light residue remaining. Good luck.
1. Bleach. (sodium hypochlorite) Household bleach is 5.25% as sold in the stores. You can use it straight or cut it half and half with water. As you cut it, it will penetrate better. But is it mildly corrosive and will assault a sensitive nose. Will bleach the color out of any fabric and kill plants if saturated with a bleach solution.
2. Hydogen Peroxide. As sold in the stores, it is a 3% solution and can be sprayed on with a spray bottle. Not as effective as bleach initially, but it does work, albeit more slowly. A very very mild oxidizer. Most non chlorine bleaches are made with hydrogen peroxide and can be used to kill light mold and mildew.
3. Consan Triple Action 20. A combination quaternary disinfectant/mildewcide that is very effective on any mold and mildew. Mix with water according to directions. Key is to keep the side WET for 10 minutes. It has a 99.999% efficacy if label instructions are followed. Faint chemical smell. Very similar chemical to Lysol. Available at big box stores and plant houses.
4. Swimming Pool Algaecide. Another quaternary disinfectant/algecide/mildewcide in a 10% solution with water. Efficacy similar to Triple Action 20 as the active is essentially similar. Still need a 10 minute wet time.
All of the above recommendations are predicated on removing all the mold and mildew you can using mechanical means (brush washing, scrubbing, power washing, etc). These chemicals are not very good penetrants and requires you to remove as much of the mold and mildew as possible so the chemicals can be effective on the residue. If you have a heavy mold and spray any of the above on them, it will only kill the surface layer....it will come back almost immediately. So wash the area very well and only use the chemicals on the light residue remaining. Good luck.
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I would like to add some to what Chuck said.
Go to your pool supply shop and get some 10% chlorine. It is much better than the grocery store stuff (5.25%).
Also add some Borax to the mix, it is a prover fungicide.
Physically remove all the debree you can first by scraping, brushing, sweeping and or powerwashing. And then "Treat" the area.
I would mix Bleach / Water 1:4.
Add 1 lb Borax to 10 gal of mix.
Add 1 cup of Dawn Dishwashing liquid to the mix as a surfactant. Dawn has no ammonia in it so it will not react with the bleach.
Put it in a pumpup sprayer and soak it down. The Bleach kills the mold short term and the Borax kills the mold residually long term. The Dawn is just the surfactant to make it stick.
We use this simular mix to clean asphalt roofs with great results.
Go to your pool supply shop and get some 10% chlorine. It is much better than the grocery store stuff (5.25%).
Also add some Borax to the mix, it is a prover fungicide.
Physically remove all the debree you can first by scraping, brushing, sweeping and or powerwashing. And then "Treat" the area.
I would mix Bleach / Water 1:4.
Add 1 lb Borax to 10 gal of mix.
Add 1 cup of Dawn Dishwashing liquid to the mix as a surfactant. Dawn has no ammonia in it so it will not react with the bleach.
Put it in a pumpup sprayer and soak it down. The Bleach kills the mold short term and the Borax kills the mold residually long term. The Dawn is just the surfactant to make it stick.
We use this simular mix to clean asphalt roofs with great results.
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49 Posts
Bleach is a bit of a no no
I spent five years of my life as a residential construction superintendent in the hours upon hours i spent with safety training in the oshaa classroom we were told not to use bleach repeatedly. Using a bleach product no matter how watered down is more harmful ingested by whomever is using it than the mold itself. We were always told just to use hot soapy water. The key is to remove all moisture before you enclose the studs or effected area. If the area is dry you should not have any further issues with mold. Mold needs moisture to live it is an organic substance. I would get a moisture meter and make sure it reads its lowest level before you cover it back up. Again you cannot have mold without water.
I spent five years of my life as a residential construction superintendent in the hours upon hours i spent with safety training in the oshaa classroom we were told not to use bleach repeatedly. Using a bleach product no matter how watered down is more harmful ingested by whomever is using it than the mold itself. We were always told just to use hot soapy water. The key is to remove all moisture before you enclose the studs or effected area. If the area is dry you should not have any further issues with mold. Mold needs moisture to live it is an organic substance. I would get a moisture meter and make sure it reads its lowest level before you cover it back up. Again you cannot have mold without water.
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1,213 Posts
What centex said about the Borax in right on...also the roaches hate it as well.
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