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Old 11-12-2009, 09:31 PM   #1
scbljr60
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Aluminum boat transom repair

The transom is plywood sandwiched between two sheets of aluminum. I am thinking about replacing the plywood with a frame made of stainless square tubing. Good or bad idea?
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Old 11-12-2009, 10:28 PM   #2
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Bad Idea .
Stainless and Aluminum don't get along all that well .

Pull the wood and add a 1/4" sheet of the right alloy to the transom . We have a good rebuild on a Sheet metal boat on www.aluminumalloyboats.com , here is the link to the thread.
http://www.aluminumalloyboats.com/vi...p=17476#p17476
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Old 11-13-2009, 04:35 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply here is what I am dealing with.
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Old 11-13-2009, 05:20 PM   #4
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Cut the back end out, replace the wood and weld it back together. Easy fix!
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:58 AM   #5
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What make of boat are you repairing? I have a roughneck that's perforating the skin around the transom. I was told that the filler material was the cause but since I wasn't the original owner sol. So far I just patch the holes and keep going,but need to repair before long. Heep us posted on the final repair.

GED
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:26 PM   #6
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After seeing the pic above, I'd say you may want to consider using a composite transom solution like, Arjay, Nida Bond or Seacast. You would then simply dig out all the old wood, mix the composite and pour in a new transom. This would make for a permanent fix with the very least structural damage to the rest of the hull and probably no welding. I'd then make up a new top cap to cover what is cut away at the top.

Here's some links on the stuff I refer to:
http://www.arjaytech.com/overview/overview.htm
http://www.nidacore.com/english/nord...nd_transom.htm
http://transomrepair.com/zk/

I have used Seacast and have heard good things about the other two brands as well. Seacast is the most expensive and the most popular but they were the first to get into the replacement transom market. Nida and Arjay I'm told are the same stuff, but can't confirm that. Both are used in several OEM boats from what I've been told.

We did a transom which held twin Johnson 250hp motors with Seacast and the result was a rock solid transom which so far is fine after two seasons of hard use. The boat was not mine, nor was it my project, but I prepped the transom for the pour.

The old wood can be dug out with a combination of drills, chainsaw, chisels, and a shop vac. If you can open up the entire top, an aluminum boat transom can often be removed whole depending on the degree of rot.
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:07 PM   #7
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This is a 23 year old Empire, it has been filled with water several times and after digging out the old wood yesterday probably never dried out. I have had several holes appear in the transom in recent years probably due to the wet wood. I seriously considered the Sea Cast but have no way to seal the inside without tearing the whole transom out. I have glued two pieces of treated plywood together and coated them with epoxy. I am going to insert this through the hole in the picture and then weld the top of the transom back on plus a piece of 3/16ths on the back to cover the pin holes behind the motor. There is enough bracing on the front side to support this. I will post pictures of the progress.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:18 PM   #8
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DO NOT use treated lumber in a Alloy boat , if you have to use wood , use UNtreated lumber and mix up watery epoxy and coat the wood several times to make sure it soaks in VERY well .

Again , DO NOT put treated lumber in contact with Aluminum Alloy or you WILL have the same problems again .

This also goes for the Bunks on your trailer . We have a couple guys on my site that have had issues with treated bunk lumber and it aint perty.

Good luck with your repair.
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Old 11-16-2009, 08:53 AM   #9
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Welder you are right I have seen that happen before. I am going to find a way to make the Sea Cast or similar product work. This is still too good of a boat to cut corners on. Thanks!
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Old 11-25-2009, 06:32 PM   #10
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I decided to go with the Seacast, I would recommend this to anyone instead of wood after seeing all the corrosion on the inside. I used a piece of swimming pool hose to block off the sides before the pour. The wooden trough duct taped to the boat was also very helpful.Overall it was an easy repair ready for some paint and a motor.
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