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Setting T-posts in rocky ground?

32K views 34 replies 27 participants last post by  bigfishtx 
#1 ·
Guys,

I've got to build some feeder pens in a very rocky area. What is the best way to bore holes to set T-posts. I know professional fence builders use compressors and air drills but I'm hoping there is other options in a tool I can rent. Hammer drill maybe?

Anyone have any experience they can share?
 
#20 ·
We had to buy portable cow pens for a few of our feeders. They were around $35/panel when we bought them. We used 8 panels but you could probably get by with 6 for a deer feeder. This one is around a 3,000 lb bulk feeder.


Man! Your feed pen pic is impressive! Considering my age, the amount of work I went through driving t-posts north of Fredericksburg and probably the damage to my shoulders and body from the repeated shock of the very heavy driver, your way is definitely smarter too.
 
#6 ·
Since you say rocky soil, from your location I'm assuming you can go into town and find this guy. His name is Emanuel Labor.

Seriously, I would go with the sharpening the ends idea if you are dead set on using t-posts. The only real problem will also be that the sharpened end will find the path of least resistance and the posts will take a path other than that perpindicular to the ground.

Here's how it usually goes. The first few t-posts look great, then you get to the point of idgaf anymore and I just want to be done. My experience with t-posts in rocky soil is: as long as it gets the job done, aesthetics need not apply.
 
#8 ·
Since you say rocky soil, from your location I'm assuming you can go into town and find this guy. His name is Emanuel Labor.

Seriously, I would go with the sharpening the ends idea if you are dead set on using t-posts. The only real problem will also be that the sharpened end will find the path of least resistance and the posts will take a path other than that perpindicular to the ground.

Here's how it usually goes. The first few t-posts look great, then you get to the point of idgaf anymore and I just want to be done. My experience with t-posts in rocky soil is: as long as it gets the job done, aesthetics need not apply.
It always seems to be the last post that finds 18"s of solid rock :cheers:
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the feedback guys. Driving posts in this area is not an option. You have to drive through solid rock in 95% of the places you put a post.

The rancher uses a portable diesel powered air compressor and an air drill.

I'm hoping to come up with a method like a hammer drill or electric jack-hammer that I can run off a portable generator.

Please keep the ideas, suggestions, and experience coming!
 
#12 ·
I had the same problem, on top of a hill. I took a portable generator, hammer drill, and masonry bit. I also used a pick axe to try to dig down some before I started drilling. I drilled a hole about 18" down, set/drove 1 piece of rebar in each hole, set a cinder block over the two pieces of rebar that stuck up about 6" out of the ground. I put the t-post in the square hole, then mixed and poured quick-krete in the block, and set up a mound of rocks around it and poured the mix in and over them as well. After the poles set, I strung up barbed wire. I was also able to make a gate to allow good access. Took a day, by myself, and I did enjoy some Motrin afterwards. I built basically a hexagon shaped pen about 25 ft in diameter. I did basically the same with the 10 ft stand, posts coming down and a center anchor, and my stand doen't move a bit even in high wind.
I sure am going to hate it once I move from the lease.
Brian
 
#13 ·
Rock Drill

We have installed T-posts in Rocksprings with a leased air compressor and a rock drill (star drill?). I've even used an electric Bosch pavement breaker. Both my BIL and a friend recently bought electric hammer drills (I think one was a Dewalt and the other was a no-name from Northern Tool or a freight place). I think one accepts a 1" + diameter rock drill bit. This allows for a tight fit for the T-post. I will get the exact model, etc. for the drill and bit if you want it. I'm lucky since I have soil on my place in my low pastures and can use a driver to set T-posts. I say I'm lucky, but with the prolonged drought the cows have lean against and loosened almost every T-post I've set!
 
#16 ·
We have installed T-posts in Rocksprings with a leased air compressor and a rock drill (star drill?). I've even used an electric Bosch pavement breaker. Both my BIL and a friend recently bought electric hammer drills (I think one was a Dewalt and the other was a no-name from Northern Tool or a freight place). I think one accepts a 1" + diameter rock drill bit. This allows for a tight fit for the T-post. I will get the exact model, etc. for the drill and bit if you want it. I'm lucky since I have soil on my place in my low pastures and can use a driver to set T-posts. I say I'm lucky, but with the prolonged drought the cows have lean against and loosened almost every T-post I've set!
I'm in the Rocksprings area as well. The hammer drill information is the type of stuff I'm looking for. Any additional information would be very much appreciated.

Many thanks to everyone for all the ideas!
 
#14 ·
Beltec makes an auger that goes on 3 point or the front of a bobcat. expensive but quick if you can find a place to rent one. Other than that we use an 80 pound post driver and yes ive hit myself in the head once. Right on the top of my skull and broke a tooth but no other noticable drain bammage ur nuffin.
 
#19 ·
I've used a hammer drill that worked pretty good just make sure you have some extra bits with you.

Also you have to knock the plate off the t-post before driving it in the ground.

M
Fishnut,

I have a 22" long Carbide or Diamond tip 1 1/2" Hammer Drill Bit and it cost me $120.00 and at that amount I couldn't afford to have a few extras :eek:!! I haven't gotten to use it yet to set my t-post but I am hoping I can at least set up four pens before needing another. I bought it just for drilling the rocky areas I hunt near Rocksprings.
 
#21 ·
1.5" or 2" spline shaft hammer drill with a generator should work fine. It mostly depends on the type of rock. If it's just limestone one bit should get you plenty of holes. If you have any granite or hard rock like that it will take longer. If mostly limestone it would be perfect. Hammer drill will get you deep enough to not need any concrete. Hammer drills are easy to rent.
 
#24 ·
I think the only way to go is with the cattle panels. You can buy the cattle panels that are 16 ft long, cut them in half and get some sucker rod or whatever you can find, weld you a frame and tack weld the panel to the frame. I've got (10) - 8' panels and when you tie them all together you'd be amazed at how strong it makes the pen. Then if you want to move your feeder or move to another lease it makes it so much easier. The heck with driving t-posts. We learned this the hard way.
 
#26 ·
We have some of the cattle panels and for some reason on our place the deer just do not like jumping into them. A few deer will but the vast majority will not. We did not have this problem on other leases but after a couple of years of using the cattle panels on this place it is very obvious the deer do not like them. They will feed all around the outside but very few jump inside.

Looks like the hammer drill is the way to go. It is all limestone so that is the direction I'm heading. Driving them is not an option.

Thanks to all!
 
#28 ·
I like the idea of some kind of portable panels as well. Probably the reason the rancher uses a compressor and a drill on a jackhammer is he's tried the other options. In Wimberley that's how I had to do it, and how the local fencers do it. For that amount of work on a lease, I know I'd be more apt to buy bull wire panels in the height I wanted, frame them up with angle iron and pins, and use them in portable style like the cattle panels were used. That way, they are always yours to take wherever you want. Probably a lot of work at first, but I did this with a bunch of pig panels, and we used them for many years in different configurations for pigs, and with only an occasional stake/rebar/tpost they stayed in place. I know the cows can pound on the panels, but those big pigs can work them over as well and they always seemed to hold up. I framed them with 1X1 angle, I think, but you could use bigger. Just another idea.
 
#34 ·
I've driven plenty of t-posts in Bandera without too much trouble. I don't know what kind of brush is in the area you are building the pen, but the trick is to put the t-post right up against a bush, even a small one, and drive it in. There seems to always be a crack in the rock at that point. It has worked every time for me. like the others said, it doesn't have to be pretty, just functional.
 
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